Round By far the most preferred diamond shape, the round-brilliant cut is also the most optically brilliant because of its 360-degree symmetrical shape. A round brilliant is a great choice if you want the most sparkle and the most enduring classic shape. The round shape has been cut for centuries, but in 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky defined specific angles and proportions to yield the most brilliant diamond, which form the basis for the modern "Ideal" cut round-brilliant diamond. Round-brilliant diamonds are the only shape to have this ideal proportion defined. The round silhouette works with almost every mounting, from classic solitaires to the most avant-garde designs. Rounds can be set into four or six prongs, based on the design of the setting, or into bezel mountings (a metal band that runs around the edge of the diamond to hold it securely in the setting). In general, if the round brilliant has an Ideal cut or Very Good cut, you want the setting to have the least amount of metal around the stone so that it is held securely but does not cover up too much of the diamond and block light from entering the stone.
		Princess The princess cut is a modern classic of clean, square lines and beautiful sparkle. This shape is the perfect choice if you prefer a square or rectangular outline but want the brilliance of a round. Developed in the 1970s, the princess cut is now second only to the round brilliant in popularity. The cutting of this diamond combines the step-cutting of the emerald cut with the triangular facets of the brilliant cut and is cut with right-angle corners. Although most prefer a square outline, some stones are cut with a slightly more rectangular outline. The princess cut works beautifully as a solitaire but also looks great paired with side stones, especially trillions or smaller princess-cut diamonds. It is important to protect the more vulnerable corners with a V-shaped prong at each point.
		Asscher This elegant shape is a variation on a classic emerald cut, developed in 1902 by the venerable Asscher brothers in Holland. The Asscher cut is not a traditional choice but has gained deserved exposure recently because of celebrities wearing the cut. The uniqueness of this shape is defined by the pavilion, or bottom part of the diamond, that has a "scissor cut" with all facets step-cut down toward the culet, or point on the bottom. The blocked corners add to its geometric appeal, making the diamond appear almost octagonal. It is usually cut to a square outline as opposed to rectangular. This diamond shape is beautiful in a simple solitaire or in a setting that has simple geometric lines or side stones such as baguettes. Ideally, the setting for an Asscher cut should not hide the unique blocked corners.
		Marquise The marquise cut is a regal, elongated shape with tapering points at both ends. Its shape tends to flatter the finger, making it appear longer. When choosing a marquise cut, the length-to-width ratio should be considered. Usually a ratio of 2:1.0 is preferred, meaning that the length of the stone should be about 2 times the width of the diamond. However, like all fancy shapes, personal preference prevails, and some may prefer a shorter, wider outline or longer, thinner shape. Just look for good symmetry to ensure overall beauty no matter what outline you prefer. This shape works in a simple solitaire setting or looks beautiful with side stones, especially baguette or trillion shapes. A marquise-cut diamond should be mounted with six prongs: four positioned on the sides to hold the body of the stone securely and two V-shaped prongs to protect the points at either end, the most vulnerable part of the diamond.
		Emerald The emerald-cut diamond is among the most classic of diamond shapes. Its clean lines come from step-cutting, or parallel line facets. It is always cut with blocked corners and is usually cut to a rectangular outline, although a few are cut to be more square. Because of its simpler faceting structure, larger inclusions are sometimes more visible to the unaided eye, so diamonds cut in this shape usually need to be higher clarity (I1 or I2 clarities should probably be avoided). Length-to-width ratios should be considered when choosing an emerald cut: Usually a 1.50:1.00 ratio is preferred, meaning that the length of the stone should be about 1½ times the width of the diamond. However, like all fancy shapes, personal preference prevails, and some may prefer a squarer outline, or longer, thinner rectangle. An emerald cut is loved by purists and looks especially wonderful set in platinum, in a simple setting or a baguette side-stone setting.
		Radiant The radiant cut is a beautiful combination of the classic emerald cut and the sparkle of the round brilliant. The radiant cut is similar to the princess cut but is usually (though not always) a more rectangular outline and has blocked corners like those of an emerald cut. The cutting is a combination of the step-cutting of the emerald-cut diamond with some triangular faceting of the brilliant cut. The radiant cut is dramatic as a solitaire but also looks great paired with side stones such as baguettes, trillions, or princess shapes. A radiant-cut stone should be set with special prongs to hold the blocked corners securely.
		Cushion The cushion cut is an unusual diamond shape and an interesting alternative to an oval- or princess-cut diamond. Because these are relatively rare, this shape is for someone who wants something few people possess. The modern cushion shape is based on an antique cushion cut, which is a combination of round and square outline with a softened square or "pillow" shape. A cushion-cut may be squarer with length and width in equal proportion, or may have a slightly elongated outline, depending on the individual stone and the wearer's preference. As a solitaire, it makes a statement and also looks wonderful paired with side stones such as baguettes. A cushion-cut diamond setting should have at least four secure prongs.
		Pear The pear shape is a beautiful, feminine diamond shape with a rounded end on one side and a tapering point at the other. It is lovely as the center stone in a ring or outstanding as a pendant or pair of drop earrings. As with many fancy shapes, length-to-width ratio should be considered. Usually a ratio of 1.5:1.0 is preferred, meaning that the length of the stone should be about 1½ times the width of the diamond. Some may prefer a shorter, wider outline or a longer, thinner shape. Good symmetry is a must for pear-cut diamonds. This will ensure that light is reflected evenly, especially in the point. The asymmetrical shape should be considered when setting a pear cut, which looks beautiful as a solitaire, or with side stones, especially smaller pear-cut stones or baguettes. A pear-shaped diamond should be mounted in a special setting with five prongs: two to hold the rounded end, two to hold the curved sides of the stone securely, and one V-shaped prong to protect the point at the other end, the most vulnerable part of the diamond.
		Oval The oval cut is most similar a round-brilliant cut and combines the round's sparkle with a flattering, elongated outline. It makes a good choice for someone who wants a unique shape but loves the fire and brilliance of a round diamond. The length-to-width ratio of ovals can vary based on personal preference. Generally a ratio of 1.5:1.0 is preferred, meaning that the length of the stone should be about 1½ times the width of the diamond. However, like all fancy shapes, personal choice should guide you; some may prefer a shorter, wider outline or a longer, thinner shape. The relatively symmetrical shape lends itself well to a variety of mounting styles. Most oval cuts look great in any mounting meant for a round brilliant as long as the setting that holds the diamond has six prongs properly spaced for security.
		Heart The heart-shaped diamond is the most romantic of diamond shapes. It is similar to the pear shape but has a cleft in the rounded end that forms the lobes of the heart. The complexity of the shape requires skilled cutting to ensure proper brilliance. Symmetry is a big consideration for this shape, as the outline needs to have a pleasing, obvious heart outline apparent in the setting. The lobes should be rounded (not pointed) and clearly defined. Heart-shaped diamonds should be mounted in special settings with five prongs: two at the lobes of the heart, two on the sides of the heart, and a V-shaped prong to protect the point of the heart, the most vulnerable place on the diamond.
		Trillion The trillion cut is a dramatic cut that makes a bold statement. It was developed in the 1970s as a variation of the radiant cut, combining step-cutting and brilliant faceting. While often used as side stones, this cut is rarely used for the center diamond, so it is somewhat scarce in larger sizes. The triangular shape needs to be considered with the style of mounting and would probably go best in a simple solitaire or geometric setting that works with the unique shape. The trillion cut will require a special setting that has V-shaped-prongs to protect the corners of the diamond.

Diamond

Unique in the world of gemstones, diamond is the hardest of all substances. Perhaps it is because of this durability that diamond is treasured as a symbol of lasting devotion.

Diamond is celebrated for the purity of its brilliance. Yet within the structure of diamond, we often find impurities, or inclusions , that deflect light, distracting our eye from the radiance we so value. Many of these tiny imperfections are removed when the diamond is shaped. Today cutters also have the option of using an enhancement technique that focuses tiny beams of laser light at imperfections and vaporizes them. The minute passageways created by the laser may then be filled with clear resins or glass-hard substances, rendering them nearly invisible to the naked eye. This method can also be used to fill fissures that reach the stone's surface, rendering them less visible to the naked eye. This treatment is permanent: only extreme heat or specifically formulated chemicals will remove the filling from the laser passageways or fissures.

Diamonds may also be colored in a variety of hues. Extreme heat and irradiation permanently enhance certain innate color properties, allowing them to display their hues in more brilliant array. Black diamonds, for example, are usually enhanced in this way.

A new high-pressure high-temperature treatment, known as HPHT, can improve the color of certain types of diamonds. HPHT treatment can remove tints from some diamonds, making them more colorless, or intensify the pink, blue, green and yellow colors in others. Because HPHT diamonds sell for less than naturally colored diamonds, industry rules require HPHT-treated stones to be identified with an inscription on the girdle of the diamond to prevent misrepresentation.

Whether color enhanced, lasered, or cut from the most perfect raw state, your jeweler will inform you of the magical journey your diamond has followed, from deep within earth's mantle to the fine, finished gemstone you see before you.

Diamonds are beautiful symbols of love around the world.
Stone's names: Diamond, Brilliant.

Color: Diamonds are usually colorless. However, brown, yellow, green, blue, purple, pink, red, gray and black variations are also found depending on the impurities present.

Description: C Native carbon Diamond is a mineral composed of pure carbon. It is difficult to accept that chemically this brilliant gemstone is the same as black opaque graphite and even ordinary soot.
Diamond is the hardest natural substance, with a hardness of 10 on Mohs' scale, so it can be cut or polished only by another diamond. It can be identified by its hardness and adamantine lustre. Despite its extreme hardness diamond is brittle and at 4,289 degree C a diamond will completely burn up leaving nothing behind.
Diamonds are the most popular gemstone of all time. Diamonds used for jewelry are graded on the basis of color from blue-white to yellow. Grading also is done on the basis of purity, which varies from perfectly clear, extremely pure stones to those with many impurities and flaws. Diamonds are said to be of the first water when very transparent, and of the second or third water as transparency decreases. Diamond stones are weighed in carats (1 carat = 200 milligrams) and in points (1 point = 0.01 carat).
The hardness, brilliance, and sparkle of diamonds make them unsurpassed as gems.

The name's origin: Diamond derives its name from the Greek word adamas, which means "invincible".

Birthstone: Diamond is the birthstone of Aries (Ram): March 21 - April 19.

Wedding anniversary: Diamond is the anniversary gemstone for the 30th and 60th year of marriage.

Care and treatment: Diamonds should be stored separately. They can scratch other jewelry as well as each other.

From the stone history: Diamonds from Indian deposits were known in ancient times. In the West the limited use of diamonds began in the late Middle Ages. The diamond, was thought to give its wearer strength in battle and to protect him against ghosts and magic.The first river-bed diamonds were probably discovered around 800 B.C.
Large demand provided an incentive for the production of false diamonds as early as 1675 in Paris.
Only 20 per cent of diamonds are suitable for cutting as gems. The rest are discolored or contain flaws. Because of their extreme hardness, diamonds have a number of important industrial applications. They are used in drill bits, glass cutters, masonry saws for shaping building stone, and for cutting other diamonds.

Shopping guide: Diamonds are special gifts due to their glamour, rarity, durability and beauty. Diamonds are welcome gifts for all occasions. They are beautiful symbols of love around the world.
A diamond with proper proportions will send all light entering the diamond out of the top of the stone. This is considered an ideal cut and what you should be looking for.
If you want a nice diamond be prepared to pay a nice price. Low price means low quality.
Be aware of numerous imitations of diamonds: cubic zirconia, synthetic moissianite, synthetic rutile, strontium titanate, colorless topaz, colorless sapphire, and many others. Scratching glass is useless test as many imitations made of quartz , which also scratches glass. Consult a professional, independent retail jeweler to insure you are getting the real thing.
If you are making a large investment in a diamond make sure that you are getting a diamond grading report from a reputable gemological laboratory.

Healing ability: Diamond is a great assistance for all brain diseases. It is beneficial in stomach area. Diamonds strengthen the owner's memory.

Mystical power: Diamonds give faith, purity, life, joy, innocence and repentance. They assist in developing concentration and in beeing straight-forward and honest. It is believed the diamond loses its brilliance with the health of the wearer, regaining it only when the owner recovers.
Diamond is an antidote to poison and is capable of detecting poison by exhibiting a moisture or perspiration on its surface. Supposedly, the higher quality the diamond, the better it supports these qualities.

Deposits: Diamonds are mostly found in Australia, Ghana, Zaire, Russia, USA (Arkansas, California, Colorado, and North Carolina), and Brazil.

Famous diamonds:

 Jubilee diamond, flawless, clear white diamond weighing almost 651 carats in rough form, it was found in the Jaegersfontein mine in South Africa in 1895. It was faceted into a cushion brilliant of about 245 carats in 1897, the year of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, from which it takes its name. Excelsior diamond, until the discovery of the

Cullinan diamond in 1905, the world's largest-known uncut diamond. When found by a worker loading a truck in the De Beers mine at Jagersfontein, Orange Free State, on June 30, 1893, the blue-white stone weighed about 995 carats. After long study the Excelsior diamond was cut (1904) by I.J. Asscher and Company of Amsterdam into 21 stones ranging in weight from less than 1 carat to more than 70 carats.

 Cullinan diamond, world's largest gem diamond, which weighed about 3,106 carats in rough form when found in 1905 at the Premier mine in Transvaal, S.Af. Named for Sir Thomas Cullinan, who had discovered the mine three years earlier, the colorless stone was purchased by the Transvaal government and was presented (1907) to the reigning British monarch, King Edward VII. It was cut into 9 large stones and about 100 smaller ones by I.J. Asscher and Company of Amsterdam.

 Excelsior diamond, which until the discovery of the Cullinan had been the largest known diamond. The stones cut from the Cullinan diamond, all flawless, are now part of the British regalia. The two largest are the largest cut diamonds known, and the larger of these is the Great Star of Africa, or Cullinan I, a 530.2-carat, pear-shaped gem set in the English sceptre. The other is the most valuable stone in the imperial state crown, the 317-carat Cullinan II, sometimes called the Second Star of Africa.

 Hope diamond, sapphire-blue gemstone from India, one of the largest blue diamonds known. It is thought to have been cut from a 112-carat stone brought to France by the jewel trader Jean-Baptiste Tavernier and purchased by Louis XIV in 1668 as part of the French crown jewels. This stone, later called the French Blue, was recut into a 67-carat heart in 1673 and disappeared after the crown-jewel robbery of 1792. The 45.5-carat Hope diamond, named for the London banker Thomas Hope, who purchased it in 1830, was apparently formed from it. The Hope diamond is on display in the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.

 Regent diamond, also called PITT DIAMOND, a brilliant-cut stone with a slight blue tinge that once was the outstanding gem of the French crown jewels; it was discovered in India in 1701 and weighed 410 carats in rough form. It was purchased by Sir Thomas Pitt, British governor in Madras, who published a letter in the London Daily Post to counter rumours that he had stolen the gem. The stone was cut to a 141-carat cushion brilliant called the Pitt diamond and was purchased in 1717 by the Duke of Orleans, regent of France--hence its present name. In 1792 it was stolen along with other crown jewels but was recovered. Napoleon I wore the stone in the pommel of his sword. It has been on display in the Louvre since 1887.

 Great Mogul diamond, the largest diamond ever found in India. It was discovered as a 787-carat rough stone in the Golconda mines in 1650 and subsequently was cut by the Venetian lapidary Hortentio Borgis. The French jewel trader Jean-Baptiste Tavernier described it in 1665 as a high-crowned rose-cut stone with a flaw at the bottom and a small speck within. Its present location is unknown, and some believe that either the Orlov diamond or the Koh-i-noor may have been cut from this stone after its loss following the assassination of its owner, Nader Shah, in 1747.
 Shah diamond, yellow-tinged stone of about 89 carats that bears three ancient Persian inscriptions, indicating it was discovered before 1591, probably in the Golconda mines in India. The inscriptions are to Nezam Shah Borhan II, 1591; Shah Jahan, son of Shah Jahangir, 1641; and Fath 'Ali Shah, 1826. Given to Tsar Nicholas I by Fath 'Ali Shah in 1829, it is displayed in the Diamond Fund of Russia in Moscow.

 Orlov diamond, rose- cut gem from India, one of the Romanov crown jewels; it is shaped like half an egg, with facets covering its domed surface, and the underside is nearly flat. It weighs nearly 200 carats. According to legend, it was once used as the eye of an idol in a Brahman temple in Mysore and was stolen by a French deserter, who escaped with it to Madras. Others contend that the authenticated history of the Orlov extends to the middle of the 18th century, when the stone (believed to be the long-missing Great Mogul diamond) belonged to Nader Shah, king of Persia. After his assassination it was stolen and sold to an Armenian millionaire named Shaffrass. In either case, it was purchased in 1774 by Count Grigory Grigoryevich Orlov, who in an unsuccessful attempt to regain favour gave it to Empress Catherine II the Great. Catherine had it mounted in the Romanov imperial sceptre, and it is now part of Russia's Diamond Fund (which contains the tsarist regalia) in Moscow.

 Sancy diamond, fiery stone of Indian origin that is shaped like a peach pit and weighs 55 carats. It has a long history and has passed through many royal families. Purchased in Constantinople about 1570 by Nicolas Harlay de Sancy, the French ambassador to Turkey, it was lent to the French kings Henry III and Henry IV. Later it was purchased by Queen Elizabeth I of England and descended to the Stuarts. After the flight of James II from England to France in 1688, it reappeared among the French crown jewels of Louis XIV and was stolen with these in 1792. It reappeared in 1828, when it was purchased by the Russian prince Demidov, in whose family it remained until 1900. Later it became the property of Lady Nancy Astor.

 Florentine diamond, clear, pale-yellow stone weighing 137 carats; of Indian origin, it was cut as a double rose with 126 facets. Once owned by Charles the Bold, duke of Burgundy, who lost it when he fell in battle in 1477, the stone came into the possession of Pope Julius II and the Medici family early in the 16th century. Maria Theresa of Austria acquired it through her marriage (1736) to the Duke of Tuscany, and it subsequently became part of the Austrian crown jewels. Seized by the Germans when they took over Austria just before World War II, it was recovered by the U.S. 3rd Army and returned to the Viennese by Gen. Mark Clark.

 Star of the South, unblemished, 129-carat white diamond with a rosy glow, one of the largest ever found in Brazil; it weighed about 262 carats in rough form. It was discovered in 1853 in the Bagagem River (in Minas Gerais state) by a slave woman, who was given her freedom and pensioned as a reward.

The 4 "C"s of Diamond Buying

Diamond Grading Terminology
A diamond's cost is based on the characteristics known as the "4 C's". Clarity, Color and Cut (proportion) are the quality elements which together with the Carat Weight determine the value of a stone. The closer a diamond grades to the left of one or all of these scales the rarer and the more costly it will be. While clarity is frequently assumed to be the most important factor of all the "C's", in fact, colour and cut (especially cut) have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of a diamond.

Carat Weight
Carat is the unit of weight for all gemstones. One carat is subdivided into 100 "points". Therefore a diamond measuring 75 points is 3/4 carat in weight, or 0.75ct. There are five carats in a gram. The word "carat" comes from the seed of the carob tree pod which is found in tropical climates. These seeds were used until this century to weigh precious gems.

Clarity
A diamond's clarity is determined by the number, nature, position, size and colour of internal characteristics called "inclusions" and surface features called "blemishes". These irregularities occured in the liquid magna (volcanic rock) within which the diamond was created. Diamonds are mostly pure carbon, however, during crystallization other minerals nearby, or even other bits of carbon forming more quickly may have become trapped within the cooling mass. These show themselves as the various characteristics which make up the clarity of a diamond (included crystals, feathers, clouds etc). Clarity is measured on a scale ranging from pure (flawless) to heavily included (I-3). The clarity of a diamond is graded by using 10X magnification under good lighting by an experienced grader. The final clarity grade is usually determined by how easy the inclusions and blemishes are for the grader to see.

Color
Ideally, a diamond should have no color at all, like a drop of spring water. Increasing degrees of body color are measured on a scale ranging from no color at all (D) to deeply coloured (Z). Beyond "Z" is the range where the diamond's color is vivid and rich, called "fancy colours". Diamonds of known colour are used as comparison stones for colour grading. Grading is done by comparing the diamond to be graded against these "master stones" under either artificial or natural north daylight ( in the Northern Hemisphere). A machine called the "Colorimeter" can be used for color grading but there is no substitute for the trained human eye.

Cut
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case were the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on it's overall appearance. The proportion page shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.