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When shopping for a loose diamond, or diamond jewelry it is important to know how they are evaluated. There are four different characteristics to consider when comparing and evaluating diamonds: Carat Weight, Cut, Clarity, and Color, also known as the 4 C’s. A diamond’s shape is also an important factor when choosing a diamond and we have outlined below the characteristics that determine quality for each of the shapes. Read this guide before buying a diamond, in order to make a more informed decision.
Carat Weight:

This term refers to the weight of the diamond, and not necessarily the size, as many might assume.

Learn more about Diamond Carat

Diamond Color:

Diamonds are valued by how colorless they are; therefore the less color a diamond has the higher its value. However fancy-color diamonds (such as yellow and black diamonds) are an exception to this rule.

Learn more about Diamond Color

Diamond Cut:

The cut of a diamond causes the greatest impact on its brilliance and sparkle. A diamond that is poorly cut will lack radiance even if it has perfect clarity and color.

Learn more about Diamond Cut

Diamond Clarity:

Clarity refers to the absence of imperfections and blemishes in a diamond. Almost all diamonds have minor imperfections, however, the fewer imperfections there are in a diamond the higher its clarity grading.

Learn more about Diamond Clarity

Diamond Shape:

The first step in choosing a diamond is to decide between the ten different shapes available. Each of the diamond shapes has different characteristics, but the overall attraction to a certain shape is a matter of personal taste.

Learn more about Diamond Shape

Certification:

When purchasing a loose diamond you should expect to see a copy of its grading certificate. A diamond certificate proves that your diamond has gone through a thorough and unbiased professional examination.

Learn more about Diamond Certification

How to Care for Diamonds:

Learn more about How to Care for Diamonds

The term "carat weight" is often confused with size, however, in actuality, a carat is a measure of a diamond’s weight. To choose the best carat weight for your diamond ring, consider the size of your finger, the size of the jewelry setting, and your budget.

  • The size of your finger is important because a diamond that is 1 carat in weight will look different on a size 5 finger than a size 8 finger.
  • The size and type of the setting is important to consider when deciding on carat weight, because not all settings will fit all carat weights and diamond shapes. If you have already selected a jewelry setting then it is important to check the diamond specifications of your ring.

It is also important to remember that carat weight is not the only determining factor of a diamond’s size. A diamond’s cut can dramatically change the appearance of the diamond’s size. It is possible to have a diamond of a lower carat weight, but with higher cut grade, that appears larger than a diamond with larger carat weight, but a lower cut grade. This is true because when a diamond is cut correctly, the maximum amount of light is reflected out of the top of the diamond, making it appear larger. In addition, much of the weight of a poorly cut diamond may accumulate at the bottom of the engagement ring setting making the diamond appear smaller than its carat weight would imply.

Also, it is important to note that a diamond’s size is dependent on the distance in millimeters across the top of the diamond. A diamond is measured this way because when viewing a diamond that is set into a ring, the viewer looks down on the ring from above. Therefore, when evaluating the size of a diamond it is important to take into consideration not only carat weight, but also both the cut and distance across the top of the diamond.

Please also take into account that not all diamonds sizes could fit into all types of rings. When purchasing an engagement ring mounting, you need to find out what sizes and shape diamond could fit in it.

Carat Measurement:

One carat equals 200 milligrams in weight. For a diamond under one carat, each carat is divided into 100 points. Example: 0.75 carats is noted as 75 points, and 0.50 carats, or 1/5 ct. is noted as 50 points.

Diamonds are valued by how colorless they are; therefore the less color a diamond has the higher its value will be when graded. However fancy-color diamonds (such as pink and black diamonds) are an exception to this rule and are not graded on this scale. A color grade of D is the highest rating possible, while Z is the lowest rating possible. Each letter grade has a specific range of color appearance assigned to it.

Diamond Color Grading:
D: Completely Colorless. The highest color grade possible. Extremely rare and valuable.
E-F: Colorless. Minuscule traces of color can be detected under a microscope. Rare.
G-H: Near Colorless. Color difficult to detect unless a side-by-side comparison is done against diamonds with better grades. Exceptional value.
I-J: Near Colorless. There may be a slightly detectable warmth or tone. An excellent value.
K-L-M: Noticeable color. May have slight hints of yellow or brown. Not recommended for diamond engagement rings, and large sized diamonds.
N-R: Very Light Yellow or brownish color, which could be seen with the naked eye.
S-Z: Light Yellow or brownish tint. Tint visible to the naked eye, even when mounted.

After cut, a diamond’s color is considered the second most important characteristic in the diamond selection process. This is true because the human eye detects a diamond’s sparkle first and color second. It is also important to understand that as diamond size increases the color becomes more noticeable.

Allurez offers a wide range of Loose Diamonds with different characteristics, selectable at your own exact specifications.

The cut of a diamond is one of the most important characteristics nd has the greatest overall impact on a diamond’s beauty. The cut of a diamond determines a diamond’s sparkle. A diamond with a good cut grade sparkles because the light will be properly returned out of the top of the diamond and catches the viewer’s eye. In a poorly cut diamond the light will leak out the bottom or sides resulting in a loss of brilliance and sparkle. Because the cut is so important to a diamond’s overall image, we recommend selecting the highest cut grade within your budget.


How Diamond Cut Is Graded:

A diamond’s cut grade is based on the assessment of seven components.

Appearance Based:

  1. Brightness: the combination of all white light reflecting from the interior and the surface of a diamond.
  2. Fire: dispersion of light into the colors of the spectrum.
  3. Scintillation: flashes of light, or sparkle, when a diamond is moved.

Design and Craftsmanship:

  1. Weight Ratio: The ratio of a diamond millimeter versus its weight.
  2. Durability: A diamonds resistance to breaking or chipping.
  3. Polish: smoothness of facets, graded poor to excellent.
  4. Symmetry: refers to the alignment of the facets.
How Diamond Cut is Rated

GIA Cut Grading:

Excellent: Excellent cut reflects maximum light entering the diamond, thus the diamond has an optimum shine. This cut is extremely rare.
Very Good: Very Good cut indicates superior cut, and is slightly less expensive then Excellent Cut.
Good Good Cut diamonds reflect light to obtain a good amount of brilliance and shine, but not equal to Very Good cut diamonds. Good Cut diamonds can be a very economical choice for a limited budget.
Fair: Fair Cut diamonds reflect less light than Good Cut diamond, but are better than Poor Cut diamonds.
Poor: Poor Cut diamonds are usually too deep and narrow, or shallow and wide, that the light is unable to reflect back from the diamond.

AGSL Cut Grading:

Ideal (0 Cut): The highest possible cut grade in terms of all the cut quality factors.
Excellent (1 Cut): Superior cut quality. Very slight variations in one or more of the diamond cut quality factors, which be detected almost only by a computer.
Very Good (2 Cut): High level of diamond cut. Slight variations in one or more of the diamond cut quality factors, which be detected almost only by a computer.
Good (3 & 4 Cut): )Minor Variations in 1 or more diamond cut quality factor, which could have a slight effect on a diamonds beauty, durability, or size appearance.
Fair (5, 6 & 7): Substantial variations in 1 or more diamond cut quality factors. A grade 5 diamond has little effect on a diamonds’ beauty, durability, or size appearance, where a grade 7 diamond has a higher effect.
Poor (8, 9, & 10): Major variation in 1 or more of diamond cut quality factor, which can have a significant (8) to serious (10) negative effect on a diamond’s beauty, durability, or size appearance.

If a diamond cut grade is not assigned by GIA, AGSL, or other third party laboratories, Allurez will determine the appropriate cut grade based on 6 qualities: Depth Percentage, Table Percentage, Girdle Thickness, Cutlet Size, Polish, and Symmetry. (This is an estimate and might be slightly different than if actually graded by the laboratories).

Clarity refers to the absence of imperfections and blemishes in a diamond. Almost all diamonds have minor imperfections. The fewer imperfections there are in a diamond, the higher its clarity grading. According to experts, clarity generally has the least impact on a diamond’s appearance. This is true because the few imperfections a diamond may have tend to be microscopic and generally will not noticeable affect a diamond’s beauty. It is also important to note that as a diamond’s size increases, the size of the facets also increase (diamond facets allow you to see into a diamond), and therefore the larger the diamond, the greater the importance of the its clarity.

How Clarity Is Graded:

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) developed a clarity scale, which contains 11 grades. Most diamonds fall into the VS (very slightly included) or the SI (slightly included) categories.

The components to consider when grading Clarity are: Size. Nature, Position, Color, and Quantity.

The first step in choosing a diamond is to decide between the ten different shapes available. Each of the diamond shapes has different characteristics, but the overall attraction to a certain shape is a matter of personal taste. It is also important to note that shape only identifies the form of the diamond and is a different characteristic than cut. Cut is a grade that refers to a diamond’s light return or sparkle.

Round: By far the most popular diamond shape, round diamonds account for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. The round cut is considered the most versatile of all the shapes because it can be used in a wide variety of fine jewelry types, from diamond engagement rings to diamond earrings. The round cut diamond is known to show the most brilliance and sparkle of all of the diamond shapes.
Princess: Very popular for engagement rings, the princess cut has pointed corners and is traditionally square in shape. Princess diamonds vary in how square or rectangular they are. To show the differences in shape, the length-to-width ratio is used. For a princess cut diamond that is square, look for a length-to-width ratio that is between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer a princess cut that is more rectangular, look for a length-to-width ratio that is greater than 1.10.
Emerald: The emerald cut diamond is a diamond with rectangular facets, which create its unique form. The clarity is highlighted by this shape. The emerald diamond can also be described by the length-to-width ratio, which will determine what the diamond will look like when being viewed from above). For a classic emerald shape, look for a length-to-width-ratio that is between 1.30 and 1.40. The higher the length-to-width ratio from that point on (such as a 1.75 length-to-width ratio), the skinnier the emerald shape will be.
Asscher: The Asscher-cut diamond is nearly identical to the emerald cut, except that it is square. Just like the emerald the clarity of this diamond is highlighted by its shape. The Asscher diamond also utilizes the length-to-width ratio, but since most Asscher-cut diamonds are square in shape their length-to-width ratios will be between 1.00 and 1.05.
Marquise: If size is an important factor for you, it would be smart to consider a marquise cut because the shape maximizes carat weight, which gives the illusion of a much larger-looking diamond. Marquise diamonds resemble the oval shape but have points on each end. To find the dimension of the marquise diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. A higher length-to-width ratio will yield a skinnier looking marquise, while a lower length-to-width ratio will yield a shorter and wider marquise.
Oval: The oval diamond provides beautiful brilliance and shape similar to the round diamond. To find the dimension of the oval cut diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. A higher length-to-width ratio will yield a skinnier oval, while a lower length-to-width ratio will yield a shorter and wider oval shape.
Radiant: Typically slightly rectangular to square shaped, the radiant cut diamond is characterized by its trimmed corners. To find the dimensions of the radiant shaped diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. For a radiant that is square, look for a length-to-width ratio that is 1.0, or up to 1.05. The higher the radiant’s length-to-width ratio, the more rectangular it will be.
Pear: This brilliant cut has a single point and a rounded end. It can be described as a cross between the marquise cut and a round stone. To find the dimensions of the pear shaped diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. For a more traditional pear-shaped diamond look for a length-to-width ratio that is between 1.45 and 1.75, the higher the length-to-width ratio the more thin the pear shape will be.
Heart: Like the pear shape but with a cleft at the top, the heart shape diamond is the most romantic of the shapes. To find the dimensions of the heart shaped diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. If you prefer a longer and leaner heart shaped diamond, look for a higher length-to-width ratio (such as 1.25). For a shorter and wider heart shape, look for a lower length-to-width ratio (such as .75).
Cushion: Cushion-cut diamonds (also known as “pillow-cut” diamonds) are characterized by rounded corners and large facets, which increase the overall brilliance. To determine the dimension of the cushion shaped diamond you want, use the length-to-width ratio to determine its shape. If you prefer a square shaped cushion diamond look for a length-to-width ratio around 1.0. If it is a more rectangular shape that you prefer, look for a higher length-to-width ratio such as 1.30.

While the ten shapes described above are the most popular shapes of diamonds, at Allurez we offer exclusive antique jewelry that may come in historic shape diamonds not described above.

When purchasing a loose diamond you should expect to see a copy of its certificate, provided by an independent third party laboratory. A diamond certificate, also called a diamond grading report, a diamond dossier, or a diamond quality document, proves that your diamond has gone through a thorough and unbiased professional examination. A diamond grading report will evaluate a diamond on many different components including:

Shape and Cutting Style

Measurement: The diamond’s dimensions measured in millimeters.
Weight: Weight of the diamond listed to the nearest hundredth of a carat.
Depth: Depth (for round diamonds) and/or width (for fancy shapes) relative to the diamond’s diameter.
Table: Table facet (for round diamonds) and/or width facet (for fancy shapes) relative to the diamond’s diameter.
Girdle: Range of girdle’s thickness.
Cutlet: Appearance of cutlet facet.
Finish: Grades of symmetry and polish.
Clarity: Clarity grade determined under 10 x magnification
Clarity Plot: A map of the approximate size, type, and position of inclusion as viewed under a microscope.
Color: Grade of color.
Fluorescence: Color and strength of color when a diamond is viewed under UV light.
Comments: Additional comments on the diamond’s characteristics not mentioned in the report.

Diamond Grading Laboratories:

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) are among the most respected diamond grading institutions used today. Most of the diamonds carried by Allurez are certified by GIA or AGSL. Allurez also offers diamonds certified by the reputable International Gemological Institute (IGI) and the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL).

Certification is included with every loose diamond and diamond jewelry purchased from the design your own section of Allurez.com

How to Care for Diamonds:

To keep your diamond looking its best, there are some basic tips you should follow:
  • When storing your diamond, it is best to use a lined case or box with dividers and store each peace separately because diamonds can scratch other jewelry and diamonds.
  • If you notice a loose stone setting or any other damage/abnormality with your diamond jewelry, do not wear it until you have it looked at by a professional jeweler.
  • It is best to avoid wearing diamonds when you are doing any sort of rough work such as household cleaning or yard work.
  • Diamonds should never come into contact with chlorine bleach.

How to Clean your Diamond Jewelry:

Over time it is natural for lotions, soaps, powder, and even the natural oils from your skin to build up on your diamond causing it to become smudged and dusty. Therefore, cleaning your diamond rings, diamond earrings and other types of diamond jewelry is important in order to restore their natural brilliance. Allurez Jewelers suggests four different ways to clean your diamond:
  • Cold Water Soak: Soak your diamond for several minutes in a solution of 4 parts cold water and 1 part very mild dishwashing detergent. Remove your fine jewelry from the solution and gently clean the mounting with a soft brush. Rinse your jewelry in the solution once more, remove, and drain on tissue paper.
  • Detergent Bath: In a prepared bowl of warm and mild household liquid detergent (chlorine-free!) wash your jewelry with a soft-bristled brush. On a strainer, rinse off your jewelry with warm water. Pat dry with a soft lint-free cloth. (It is important to not clean or rinse your jewelry over the drain!).
  • Quick dip Method: You also can use a brand name liquid jewelry cleaner. When purchasing a cleaner make sure to choose one that is best suited for the kind of stones and metals in your jewelry. Carefully read the label and follow the given instructions.
  • Ultrasonic Cleaner: There are many different ultrasonic cleaning machines available to the public today. Usually, the jewelry is placed in a metal cup, which is filled with water and detergent, and the machine provides a high-frequency turbulence that will clean your diamond.

NOTE: It is important to follow the exact instructions and warnings provided with your specific ultrasonic cleaning machine. Also, the four methods described above are for the cleaning of diamonds and are not appropriate for pearls, lapis, corals, opals, and many other gems. You can purchase jewelry cleaners from most jewelry stores.