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KnitCrochetFYI
Welcome
to Crazy-Anything.com Crochet~Knit~Loom~Yarn~AND MORE Information & Guides
I
am a Yarnophile and have been knitting and crocheting for over 25
years. I am offering help to understand the world of the Yarnophile
as explained below and in my eBay
ME Page. To
learn about the different subjects about knitting and crocheting just
scroll or click on the subject below
Crochet
Hooks ~ Crochet Terms/Stitches ~
Knitting Tools ~ Knitting
Needles ~ Knitting Machines ~
Knitting Terms/Stitches ~ Looms
~ Crochet & Knitting Info Websites
~ Yarnophile ~ Yarn
Textures ~ Yarn
Weights
~Crochet
Hooks~
Crochet
Hooks are
sold individually and in sets. Crochet hooks come in different types,
manufacturers, and materials they are made from. There are subtle but
different looks and styles of crochet hooks. There are a number of
specialized types, but the basic hooks are available in acrylic,
aluminum, plastic, steel, and wood – including bamboo, birch,
palmwood, walnut. Some have special grips for comfort and ease of
use. Some have inline hooks, while others have hooks at a slight cant
from the line of the handle. I like the Susan
Bates hands
down over Boyle
because of the way
the hook is bent over. The Susan
Bates hook
is a tighter smaller hook and the Boyle
has a larger more
open hook. This is what I mean by a subtle difference but a
difference that can make you a fan of one over another.
Crochet hooks range in size from 2–16
mm and have different sizing systems, not only between the US and
Britain, but also between various manufacturers. Extra care is
needed when choosing crochet hooks because some systems have the
lowest sizes corresponding to the largest diameter, while other
systems have the lowest sizes corresponding to the smallest
diameter. The variety of sizes for “regular” crochet
hooks makes it possible to use them with yarns ranging from fine
silk yarn to rug yarn.
These are some of the
specialized crochet hooks available:
Tunisian/Afghan
Crochet Hooks. Working
with an Afghan hook forms a stitch that is similar to knitting and
is often used for large flat pieces, such as the blankets that have
come to be called Afghans They characteristically have a knob
at one end to keep stitches from falling off, and the flexible
afghan hook has a nylon extension with an endstopper. Cro-Tat
Hooks. The
craft of cro-tat combines the crafts of tatting
and crochet. In general, the tatting is worked and then joined or
edged with crochet stitches. The cro-tat hook allows the crafter to
combine these crafts while using only a single set of
needles. Double-ended
or Travel Hooks. Double-ended
Hooks, not to be confused with double-hook needles, have a different
size hook on each end. They got their second name because they
reduce the number of crochet hooks necessary to carry when
traveling. Double-hook
Needles or Double End Crochet Hooks. Double
hook needles, not to be confused with double-ended hooks, are long
afghan crochet hooks with the same size hook at both ends. They are
especially designed for working with double-faced fabric in two
different colors. Jiffy
Hook, made
for use with rug yarn or fabric strips, is a large diameter hook
with which projects can be completed quickly. Crochet
Lite Acrylic/Plastic Crochet Hook.
These are WONDERFUL for crocheting dark yarns and crocheting in the
car on a long drive and you don't need the lights on to use. I even
used one when our power was out for an evening! Hairpin
Lace Looms, Crochet Forks, or Maltese
Crochets. This
specialized crochet tool creates looped lace with a central row of
crochet stitches. It is adjustable, ranging from 2–4 inches
(~5–10 cm) wide. The light pattern strip created can be joined
with others to make scarves, afghans, shawls, and pillows.
 ~Crochet
Terms in Patterns~
[
] work
instructions within brackets as many times as directed (
) work
instructions within parentheses as many times as directed - *repeat
the instructions following the single asterisk as directed **repeat
instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat
from a given set of instructions
alt
alternate - approx
approximately - beg
begin/beginning - BL
back loop(s) - bo
bobble - BP
back post - BPsc
back
post single crochet - BPdc
back post double
crochet - BPtr
back
post treble crochet - bet
between - CA
color
A - CB
color B - CC
contrasting color -
ch-
refers to chain or
space - ch-sc
single crochet - sp
chain spac- CL
cluster - cm
centimeter(s)
- cont
continue - dc
double crochet -
dc2tog
double crochet 2
stitches together - dec
decrease/decreases/decreasing
- dtr
double
treble - FL
front loop(s) - foll follow/follows/following
-
FP
front
post -
FPtr front
post treble crochet - FPsc
front post single
crochet - FPdc
front post double
crochet - g
gram - hdc
half double crochet
” inch(es) - inc
increase/increases/increasing
- lp(s)
loops - m
meter(s) - MC
main color - mm
millimeter(s) - oz
ounce(s) - p
picot - pat(s)
or patt pattern(s)
- pc
popcorn - pm
place marker - prev
previous
- rem
remain/remaining -
rep
repeat(s) - rnd(s)
round(s)previously
made - RS
right side - sc2tog
single crochet 2
stitches together - sk
skip - Sl
st slip
sitich - sp(s)
space(s) - st(s)
stitch(es) - tch
or t-ch turning
chain - tbl
through
back loop - tog
together - tr
treble crochet -
trtr
triple
treble crochet
~Tunisian/Afgan
Terms in Patterns~ Tps
purl stitch AKA:
Backwards stitch, Wave
Stitch, Fancy Tricot, Reverse Stitch - Tks
knit stitch AKA:
Stocking st, Stockinette st,
Simple Rib st, Foundation st - Trs
Reverse Stitch AKA:
Purl stitch, Fancy Tricot -
Tss
simple stitch AKA:
Afghan st, Knit st, Royal
Princess st, Tricot st, Tunis st, BAS
Basic Afghan St - Tfs
full
stitch AKA:
Plain st, Slant st, Gobelin
st, Waffle st - Pebbles-
AKA:
Bobbles, Muscovite Crochet
~Knitting
Tools & Supplies~
Items
as pictured from left to right clockwise. Needles
Sizers/Gauge measurement – Measuring
Tape – Row
Counter – Tool
Case – Scissors
– Needle
Grips – Needle
Protecters – Stitch
Markers – Cable
Needle – Stitch
Holders – Yarn
Needles
The
needles
sizer is
a tool used to size needles such as double ponted or circular that
have no size printed on the needle or the size is not visible
anymore. The sizers also usually have a measuring side that can be
used to measure
the gauge.
Checking your gauge is one of the most important first steps in
almost any knitting or crochet projects. Checking the "gauge"
before you start crocheting will insure that it turns out the size
stated in the directions. To check the gauge, knit a square using the
pattern specified. The pattern will tell you how many stitches and
how many rows there should be per inch. If your sample doesn't match
the gauge, you need to change the size of your needles and do another
test piece and re-measure. Continue doing this until your gauge
matches the pattern. The smaller the needles, the more rows and
stitches you will get per inch. Measuring
Tape is
great for a quick look to see how far you have gone and how far you
have to go! Row
Counter is
used to keep track of how many rows are knit for a pattern. There are
a few different types. There is a “clicker” which you
click every time you are done with a row. There is also a row counter
that I have (not shown) that has pegs that you move. Sometimes it is
hard to remember to click or peg the row counter so this one shown
act fits on the needle. You get that reminder when you are done with
a row. Needle
grips can
be a HUGE help. I have had 2 carpal tunnel surgeries on one hand and
the grips are great for the steel crochet hooks as well as the many
smaller sizes of knitting needles. Needle
protectors come
in a myriad of kinds & colors. There are end cap cone shaped ones
one for each needle, and 2 needles holders such as the spiral and
plastic ones shown. Stitch
markers can
be one piece with a break or not and locking. The round ones with no
breaks have to be moved from needle to needle because you cannot knit
it in to the fabric. The ones that have breaks or locking are for
marking a place on your knitting or crocheting that you need to go
back to later. Cable
Stitch Needle is
for knitting cables. There are 2 types the one pictured and one that
is in the shape of a v with long ends like this ------^------. Stitch
Holders come
in a couple different kinds and materials. The ones pictured are
aluminum large and short and plastic locking large and small. They
hold stitches until you have to come back to them as instructed to in
a pattern. Yarn
needles are
used to finish a project to sew the seams. There are metal, plastic,
and wood needles. They come in many sizes and have either a straight
point or a slightly bent point to help get in between the needle and
your yarn needles.
~Knitting
Needles~
All
these needles come in the common sizes US 0-50/2.00mm-25mm/UK or
Canadian 14-000 as well as other sizing systems such as European, old
U.S. and others. See my links below for the charts that those needles
match to your system.
Single
Point Needles (SPN) pictured
from left to right: Bamboo
Single Point Needles – Knit
Lite Acrylic/Plastic Single Point Needles –
Aluminum Single
Point Needles – Jumbo
or Broomstick Lace Needles
Double
Point needles (DPN) are
used for “knitting in the round” as pictured. They are
made from aluminum and wood usually bamboo (shown here). They can
come in different lengths and 4 or 5 to a package.
Circular
Needles. Most
come in wood, plastic, aluminum, and acrylic. They come in different
lengths from 8” to 40” or more. Pictured to the right are
aluminum and bamboo. These are used to knit in the round and are nice
because you can knit a seamless garment.
~Knitting
Machines~
Pictured
here left top to bottom right are the Innovations Circular Knitting
Machine – Singer Sew Easy Circular Knitting Machine and my Bond
Ultimate Sweater Knitting Machine as well as Bond Supplies &
tools.
Knitting
machines are something I just recently started using. I have
hopelessly addicted to them now. I have made afghans, sweaters, and
many socks and booties. These will NEVER replace hand knitting and
crocheting but are a wonderful boon to tedious knitting. They also
are something that is learned over time NOT a “quick fix”.
I have found that knowing hand knitting terms and stitches make it SO
MUCH EASIER! Many of my items are both machine and hand knit
together. Such an example is socks like the one pictured above. The
main parts are knit on the machine but the heels and toes are hand
knit using double pointed needles as shown above. There is a lot you
can do by utilizing the machines and hand crochet or knitting parts.
I like the smaller circular machines for sleeves, booties, and even
double knit afghans using knit tubes and then knit together. The BEST
thing to do if you are going to purchase or have purchased one of
these machines is subscribe to the free Yahoo groups that are
available. They have tons of patterns, how-tos, and many people who
can and do help. I have found both newbies and veterans on both the
USM/ISM Bond group and the Innovations group and I have many posts
myself. I also have the items I have knit using these uploaded onto a
photo file on each group. You can also find people who sell machines
as well.
~Knitting Terms &
Abbreviations~
[ ]
work
instructions within brackets as many times as directed - (
) work
instructions within parentheses in the place directed - * * repeat
instructions following the asterisks as directed - * repeat
instructions following the single asterisk as directed "
inch(es) - alt
alternate
approx
approximately
- beg
begin/beginning
- bet
between -
BO bind
off - CA
color A - CB
color B - CC
contrasting
color - cm
centimeter(s) - cn
cable
needle - CO
cast on - cont.
continue - dec
decrease/decreases/decreasing
- dpn
double
pointed needle(s) - fl
front loop(s) - foll
follow/follows/following - g
gram -
inc
increase/increases/increasing
- k
or K
knit -
k2tog
knit 2
stitches together - k
wiseknitwise - LH
left hand - lp(s)
loop(s)
- m
meter(s)
- m
place marker - M1
make
one stitch - M1
p-st make
one purl stitch - MC
main
color - mm
millimeter(s)
- pat(s)
or patt
pattern(s)
- op
popcorn oz
ounce(s)
- p2tog
purl 2
stitches together - prev
previous - psso
pass
slipped stitch over - p
or P
purl
pwise
purlwise - rem
remain/remaining
- rep
repeat(s)
- rev
St st reverse
stockinette stitch - RH
right hand - rnd(s)round(s)
- RS
right
side - sk
skip - skp
slip,
knit, pass stitch over—one stitch decreased - sk2p
slip
1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together; 2
stitches have been decreased - sl
slip -
sl1k
slip 1
knitwise - sl1p
slip 1
purlwise - sl
st slip
stitch(es) - ssslip
stitch (Canadian) - ssk
slip,
slip, knit these 2 stiches together—a decrease - sssk
slip, slip, slip, knit 3
stitches together - st(s)
stitch(es)
- St st
stockinette
stitch/stocking stitch - tbl
through
back loop - tog
together
- WS
wrong
side - wyib
with
yarn in back - wyif
with
yarn in front - yd(s)
yard(s)
- yfwd
yarn
forward - yo
yarn
over - yrn
yarn around needle
~Knitting
Looms & Knitting Pal~
Pictured
here are my looms. They are great for the novice knitter, kids, or
just a nice change from conventional knitting. Looms are manufactured
or built to certain gauges and they are determined by the space
between pegs. The chart below shows the different gauges, suggested
yarn weights, and stitches per inch. To go to the loom I have listed
here just click on the name of the loom in this paragraph. I hunt and
shop and bid and make sure I can get it for the lowest price. I seem
to be a pro at it so many people I know have asked my advice or help
learning how to buy below retail. I am putting together a neat page
for information on that subject. I have pictured here the Knifty
Knitter series
both round and long.
The wood looms I have are the Wonder
Sock Loom,This
was purchased from DA Looms on a Mother's Day sale!
Adjustable
Small Gauge (Rake) Loom, This
loom I bought from eBay but it is a genuine Markman Farms loom.
Generic
Regular Gauge Loom (I
got this off of eBay and there is no markings to tell who
manufactured it. I did put some extra pegs on the ends so it can be
used as an oblong as well as a doubleknit loom.
I
like them all and thus another huge sign of
the Yarnophile.
Basically they are used by wrapping yarn around the pegs in a fasion
that ends up with 2 yarn loops around the peg. Then a tool (not
pictured OOPS) like an awl but with a 90° bend
at the end

~Samples
of all of the above Knit & Crochet Items Discussed Above~
 I
have included links to my brands of yarn that I sell. Pictured
from left clockwise - Light
Blue Shrug knit
on loom (using 2 strands of yarn held together of Patons
Glittallic & Red Heart Soft Baby) - Sock
knit part on Bond machine and
heel & toe hand knit with DPNs (Cascade Fixations & elann
esprit) - Crocheted
Granny Square(Red
Heart Super Saver) - Crocheted
Lace Tablecloth (crocheted
with steel hook (Coats & Clark Crochet Thread) - Knit
Bootie/Sock on
Sew Easy Machine and hand knit cuff (Yarn
Bee Lucious & elann esprit) - Crochet
Chenille Shrug -
Crocheted
Granny Square (2
yarns held together when crocheted of Bernat's
Baby Coordinates & Red Heart Soft Baby) - Items are pictured on a
Dark Blue
Bond Machine Sweater (Lion
Brand Chenille)
~Yarnophile~
Now
here is a yarnophile! She is a hopeless slave to the thrill of yarn.
She loves the hunt, the moment that she has found the perfect yarn
and finally the acquisition of this yarn. She uses yarn in every way
possible. She is never without her knitting or crocheting whether it
be on a long week long vacation or even a short trip to get groceries
(provided she isn't driving). She gives away her fruits of labor and
loves to pour over patterns to make just the right item for a loved
one. She works all year on Christmas gifts. She is always has about
5-10 projects going at one time. She gets so excited by standing in
front of the yarn isle in Walmart her family has to pry her away. She
had at least 3 items made for her grand-child by the time her
daughter was 3 months pregnant! She constantly is ripping out what
she has made to fix something only she can tell is wrong. She loves
soft yarn and the softer and silkier the better. She will never run
out of yarn and to this end she makes sure she has at least a year
supply at any given time. Running out would be a fate worse than
death!
~Yarn
Texture~
Yarn is a continuous
strand made up of fibers or filaments, used for making fabric or
textiles of various kinds. The distinct types of knitting yarn are
categorized by their weight, purpose, ply, source fiber(s), texture,
color, and pattern. In addition, knitters choosing yarn will want to
match yardage and gauge. Yarn comes in a variety of textures: it can
be smooth, soft, fluffy, bobbly, spiky. Some of the texture effect is
as a result of the natural characteristic of the yarn, e.g. Merino
wool is naturally very soft, or alternatively as a result of the
techniques used to produce the yarn. Textured yarns such as novelty
yarns won't show the detail of the stitch pattern. Instead, their
appeal is in the actual texture of the yarn rather than that produced
by how it is knit. Manufacturers have their own brand names for their
combinations of yarn fibre, yarn weight and yarn texture. They are
constantly launching new yarn brands (and discontinuing others) to
appeal to knitters - to suit tastes, styles and fashion and to keep
hand knitting interesting and exciting. You will never need to worry
about finding a yarn that you like that is suitable for your project
and you’ll be shopping like an expert in next to no time at at
all!
Knitting
and Crocheting How-to sites and everything that I don't cover here!
~Standard
Yarn Weight System~
Weight,
Purpose, Ply. Although knitting yarn weights have been standardized
by the Craft Yarn Council of America (CYCOA), there are a number of
different systems actually in use in the English-speaking world,
making it important to make sure know the system so you can match
yarns to directions accurately. The following chart is not complete:
it does not, for example, include the Australian and New Zealand
terminology of naming yarn weights by “ply” or the
British system which substitutes chunky
for
bulky
and
aran
or
triple
for
worsted.
Notice that some of the systems mix weight and purpose in their
categories. Also, in the following chart, dk
is
used as it characteristically is in knitting, to stand for “double
knit.”
Categories
of yarn, gauge ranges,and recommended needle and hook sizes
|
Yarn
Weight Symbol & Category Names
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Type
of Yarns in Category
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Fingering 10-count
crochet thread
|
Sock, Fingering, Baby
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Sport, Baby
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DK, Light Worsted
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Worsted, Afghan, Aran
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Chunky, Craft, Rug
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Bulky, Roving
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Knit
Gauge Range* in Stockinette Stitch 4”
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33–40** sts
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27–32 sts
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23–26 sts
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21–24 sts
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16–20 sts
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12–15 sts
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6–11 sts
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Recommended
Needle in Metric Size Range
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1.5–2.25 mm
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2.25-3.25 mm
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3.25-3.75 mm
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3.75-4.5 mm
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4.5-5.5 mm
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5.5-8 mm
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8 mm & over
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Recommended
Needle U.S. Size Range
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000–1
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1 to 3
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3 to 5
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5 to 7
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7 to 9
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9 to 11
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11 on up
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Recommended
Hook in Metric Size Range
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Steel*** 1.6–1.4
mm
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2.25-3.5 mm
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3.5-4.5 mm
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4.5-5.5 mm
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5.5-6.5 mm
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6.5-9 mm
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9 mm on up
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Recommended
Hook U.S. Size Range Letter
& Numbers
|
Steel*** 6,
7, 8 & Regular hook B–1
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B–1
- E–4
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E–4
- 7
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7
- I–9
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I/9
- K/10.5
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K/10.5
- M/13
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M/13
on up
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* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect
the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for
specific yarn categories.
** Lace weight yarns are usually
knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy,
openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to
determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.
*** Steel crochet hooks are sized
differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the
smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing
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