Please round wall measurements up to the nearest foot. Make no deductions for windows or doors. This will ensure that you have enough border to complete your job.

Preparation for Wallpapering: To successfully hang your wallpaper and make sure it adheres well, please follow these preparation tips.

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Drop cloths

• Paint tray

• Paint roller handle and sleeve

• Paintbrush

• Putty knife (6-inch blade or wider)

• Plaster (drywall compound and joint compound or spackle)

• Primer

• Wallpaper sizing

• Mixing bucket

• Sandpaper

• Stepladder

Step 1. Clear the Room: If you have old wallpaper that needs removing, see How to Remove Wallpaper. Before you begin, remove everything possible from the room. All furniture kept in the room should be moved into piles near the center and covered with drop cloths. Cover the floor or carpet with drop cloths to protect from spills.

Step 2. Paint if Necessary: Paint the trim and ceiling if necessary. Do this before the wallpaper is hung so that you don’t get paint on the wallpaper. It doesn’t matter if you paint onto the wall when painting trim or the ceiling because the wallpaper will cover any painting imperfections. Give the paint about a week to dry before you begin hanging the wallpaper. (Water and glue can damage the paint if not totally dry).

Step 3. Spackle Cracks and Holes: Fill all cracks and holes using a joint compound and drywall compound or spackle. Sand the areas until they are smooth and coat them with interior primer and let it dry completely. If the walls are painted with a semi-gloss or gloss paint, give them a light sanding to dull the surface so the glue adheres better. Be sure to sand away any tiny bumps on the wall before hanging wallpaper because the bumps will show through. Run your hand over the sanded surface to make sure it is smoothed out.

Step 4. Apply Sizing to the Walls: Apply a coat of wallpaper sizing to the wall if necessary. The sizing helps you slide the paper into place when hanging it. If there is flat finish paint on the walls you are papering, sizing makes the wallpaper hanging easier. The sizing gives your walls a light gloss, which allows paper to slide into place. Apply the sizing to your walls using a paint roller just like paint. It is inexpensive and makes a better surface to hang wallpaper on. If your walls have just been primed, you can skip applying sizing to the walls. If you are not sure whether your walls need sizing or not, it is best to do it because it is quick and makes hanging wallpaper easier.

Hanging Wallpaper

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Wallpaper

• Wallpaper paste (for non-prepasted paper only)

• Adhesive brush or paint roller (for non-prepasted paper only)

• Putty knife (at least 6 inches wide)

• Smoothing brush (or smoothing knife)

• Two large sponges

• Seam roller

• Boarder and seam adhesive (only if using vinyl paper)

• Level

• Tape measure

• Pencil

• Single-edge razor blades

• Drop cloths

• Stepladder

• Water tray

• Trash bag

Step 1. Measure and Cut Paper: To make the process go quicker, cut the paper ahead of time. Number each piece at the top of the paper so that you have the right size paper for each area. If the pattern is random, you don’t have to worry about matching it up so you can cut many pieces at a time. If you have a pattern that needs to be matched, it is better if you cut the pieces as you hang them. Make sure to cut an extra six inches for trimming at the ceiling and the floor.

Step 2. Find a Starting Place: Find a spot where you want to begin. If you have a pattern that needs to be matched up, there will be one place where the patterns don’t match. The best place to start is a corner that is not noticeable, because that is the seam where the pattern will not match up perfectly like the others. Good places to start are behind a door, near drapes or in the far end of a room. Using a level, draw a vertical line about 1/2-inch wider than the width of your wall paper. This line will guide you in hanging your paper straight. Do this for each piece of paper to ensure they are straight.

Step 3. Apply Glue

• Prepasted Paper: Activate the glue on one strip of wallpaper at a time. To activate the glue, you simply run the piece of paper through the water tray. Submerge the end of the strip in the water tray, and slowly unroll the strip into the water and run it through the tray. Once the entire piece is in the water, pull it out and let if drip over the tray for about 2 seconds. Lay the piece on a table and fold the ends in so that glue is touching glue. This gives the glue time to activate. Once the ends are folded in, fold the new ends into the center again. Be careful not to crease the paper. This is called booking the wallpaper.
  
  
   

• Non-prepasted Paper: If you are hanging non-prepasted paper, you will need to apply glue to the wallpaper. You can buy the wallpaper paste at your hardware store. Lay the strip of wallpaper back side up over a big table or any flat surface. You can even use the floor, just cover it with a drop cloth first. Use a paint roller or adhesive brush to apply a thin layer of glue to the paper. Make sure to cover every inch of the paper to prevent air bubbles. Once glue is distributed over the entire piece, book the paper by folding the ends in to the center, see Figure 3.Try to keep your flat surface as clean as possible so glue does not get on the front side of the paper.

Step 4. Hang the First Piece: Place a stepladder in front of the area where your first piece of paper will hang. Take the paper by the edge that will be placed at the ceiling, keeping the rest of the paper folded. Hold the wallpaper between the vertical line and the wall by its upper corners. When it is centered, press the paper in the corner, leaving 3 inches at the ceiling and 1 inch on the adjacent wall. Let the paper unfold and drop to the floor. If the paper is hanging straight, smooth the rest of the paper onto the wall from the ceiling to the floor using a smoothing brush or smoothing knife.

Step 5. Smooth Out any Air Bubbles: Use a smoothing brush or smoothing knife to force out any air bubbles moving from the center outward. Wipe the wallpaper with a clean damp sponge to remove any glue residue and continue to smooth out any air bubbles. Make sure you rinse the sponge after each wiping to keep it clean. If you don’t rinse the sponge well enough, you will just wipe glue all over the wallpaper and it will be noticeable when it dries.

Step 6. Trim Excess Paper: Hold the blade of a putty knife into the corner where the ceiling and wall meet. Use a single-edge razor to cut off the excess paper at the ceiling. Slide the putty knife along the wall as you cut the paper. Once the ceiling is trimmed, do the same to trim the excess paper at the floor. Clean off any excess adhesive that got on the base molding or the ceiling with a clean, damp sponge.

Step 7. Roll and Wipe the Seams: Use a seam roller to press the edge of the wallpaper down. This will ensure that the edge is securely adhered to the wall. Wipe the paper again with a damp, clean sponge. It is very important to wipe each piece thoroughly because when the glue dries, it is very hard to clean off.

Step 8. Repeat For Each Piece of Paper: Move the ladder over to hang the second piece of wallpaper. Follow step 3 for gluing instructions. Hold the piece up by the top end and line up the pattern if there is one. Press the wallpaper along the top where the pattern matches and let the folded piece of wallpaper unfold. Smooth the entire strip from ceiling to floor the same as you did for the first strip, this time making sure the seam lines up correctly. Flatten out any bubbles with a smoothing knife or smoothing brush. Follow the same steps for smoothing out the paper and trimming the edges as you did for the first piece of wallpaper. Make sure to run the seam roller over the seams. Repeat this process for the rest of the wall.

Step 9. Cut Around the Windows and Doors: Line the piece of paper up as you normally would and let the excess paper hang over the opening. Smooth the wallpaper with a smoothing brush or smoothing knife all the way up to the opening. Make a diagonal cut in the paper where it hits the window or door trim. Press the paper into the crease where the wall meets the trim. Flatten the paper to the wall so that it is hugging the window or door trim. Use a putty knife and a razor blade to cut away excess paper at the door or window trim. Wipe the window or door trim with a wet sponge to remove any glue. Do the same for the bottom corner of the window.

Step 10. Smooth Corners: To make clean looking corners, smooth the paper into the corners with a smoothing knife while you are hanging it. If the house is old, the corners may not be perfect and the paper may wrinkle. To get rid of these wrinkles, make a cut in the corner where the wrinkle begins and carefully cut down in the corner until the end of the paper, pressing the wrinkle out of the paper.

Step 11. Double Check Corners and Seams: Once the entire room is wallpapered, check all the corners and seams to make sure they are not curling up. If they are, try to use the seam roller and press the seams back into place. If that does not work, apply a little glue to the seam and press it down with the seam roller. If you are using vinyl, remember that you cannot overlap, so be extra careful when checking these seams. If they are slightly overlapped, use border and seam adhesive to make sure they adhere to each other.

Step 12. Clean Up: Double check that there is no adhesive on the paper or the baseboards. Clean the tools with soap and water and throw away all the scrap wallpaper. Once the room is finished you can put the furniture back.

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Activator: A substance that contains wallpaper adhesives to improve bond plus additives to increase slip and work time for easier installations.

Adhesive: A substance that causes one thing to adhere to another; most wallpaper adhesives are cellulose-, clay- or starch-based.

Allowance: The extra amount of wallpaper allowed at the top, bottom and/or sides of a strip that is trimmed off after the strip is placed on the wall.

Booking: A term used to describe how wallpaper is folded after it is either pasted or pulled through a water tray. Generally the top of the wallpaper is LOOSELY folded (not creased) shorter on the top and longer on the bottom end and allowed to book (relax) per manufacturer’s recommendation (generally 5 to 10 minutes.)

Bolt: A double-roll of wallpaper (50-56 square feet) is called a bolt. A bolt of border is 15' long.

Border: A band of wallpaper used for decorative purposes, usually at ceiling height or at a chair-rail height (32" from top of baseboard) or around windows and doors.

Color Run: The amount of rollage of a particular design produced of a single color combination in a single production run of the design . Subsequent runs of the same design and color may be slightly different. (This is why it is important for purchasers to retain the run number in case additional rollage is needed). Also referred to a Dye Lot.

Colorway: The combination of colors in which a design is printed. Any given design is usually made in from two to six colorings.

Design: The imprint on the wallpaper such as florals, solids, stripes, geometrics, etc.

Double Roll: A bolt of wallpaper, generally containing 50 to 56 square feet or about 32 linear feet.

Drop Match: A drop match simply means your pattern does not match straight across the wallpaper but instead drops a certain distance on the opposite side of the paper. Once you have decided on pattern placement on your wall, every other piece will generally be the same.

Dye Lot Number: A set of numbers and /or letters given to a particular batch of wallpaper rolls printed at the same time; each time a new ink or different batch is printed, the dye lot number (sometimes called the color run number) will change; it is important to ensure that all rolls have the same dye lot number before beginning a job, sometimes referred to as a run number.

Embossed Wallpaper: The application of pressure and heat to create a permanent texture; because of an additional finishing process needed for the emboss, it is slightly more expensive; two types are Random and In-Register.

Expanded Vinyl Wallpaper: A heavy textured vinyl wallpaper, great for use over damaged walls and rough surfaces, sometimes referred to as blown vinyl, usually paintable.

Fabric-Backed Solid Vinyl Wallpaper: Highly durable wallpaper with a woven or non-woven fabric ground (mesh-like textile backing) and a solid vinyl coating; used almost exclusively for commercial and institutional applications.

Level: A tool which has liquid in a small glass cylinder that moves to indicate when it is positioned perfectly vertical. A 2 to 4 foot carpenter's level is useful in drawing a "level line" to start the first strip of wallpaper on a wall. Levels are used for determining the straightness of seams and can be used to pencil in horizontal lines to lay borders along.

Matching: Hanging strips of wallcovering so that the design will be in the correct relation to the preceding strips. The types of matches are "random", "straight", "drop", and "reverse".

Pattern Repeat: The distance up and down before the printed pattern exactly repeats/duplicates itself.

Peelable: A wallcovering that can be dry-peeled from the wall leaving only substrate (sometimes called paper backing) on the wall, which can then be used as a liner under new wallcoverings. Peelable wallcoverings are usually paper-backed vinyl in which a layer of solid vinyl is adhered to an inexpensive backing.

Plumb Line: A vertical guideline (sometimes called a level line) necessary when hanging wallpaper; a length of string is usually coated with chalk to which a weight is attached; when the string is snapped, the chalk leaves a straight line on the wall. A level can also be used to achieve the same results by tracing with a pencil on the correctly positioned level.

Pre-pasted Wallpaper: Wallpaper that has been pre-coated with an adhesive. The dry adhesive is activated by pulling the wallpaper through a tray of water.

Primer/Sealer: A base coating designed for use under wallpaper to seal porous surfaces prior to hanging; helps the wallpaper adhere by blocking the wall's capacity to absorb moisture from the paste; makes hanging and removing easier. It is always recommended to prime before hanging wallpaper and to use an acrylic primer/sealer formulated especially for priming for wallpapers.

Railroaded: A method of installing wallcovering horizontally rather than vertically. Generally used on lining papers.

Random Match: A pattern design where the pattern matches no matter how the adjoining strips are positioned; textures and vertical stripes are common examples.

Razor Knife: Useful for trimming wallpaper at ceilings, baseboards, around cabinets, etc. and for cutting through wallpaper layers such as when double-cutting. Change blades often for neat, clean trims.

Relax(ing): - A term used to describe the expanding process of wallpaper after water or adhesive has been applied. Some wallpapers expand 1/2" to 1" during the 5 to 10 minutes following exposure to moisture.

Reverse Match: A method of installing wallcoverings where the top is reversed on each piece (top up, then top down, then top up, then top down). Generally this method is used on commercial 54" goods.

Scrubbable: Any wallcovering that can be safely washed with a sponge and detergent while still on the wall. Perfect for high traffic areas such as kitchens and baths. Typically scrubbables are solid vinyls and wallpapers will be labeled as scrubbable.

Sizing: A solution applied to the wall to add slip for ease of smoothing and working the paper. Newer solutions such as activators and wall primers have outdated the use of sizing.

Solid Vinyl Wallpaper: Wallpaper in which a vinyl film coating is added to the ground before the pattern is printed; durable, easy to clean, scrubbable and moisture- and stain-resistant; two types are Paper-Backed and Fabric-Backed.

Straight Edge: A tool that is helpful in conjunction with a razor knife for mitering straight joints (such as double-cutting through two layers of wallpaper) and for use as a guide in trimming selvages on un-trimmed wallpaper.

Straight Match: A pattern design where the pattern match flows directly across the strips: when hung, every strip will be the same at the ceiling line and the pattern on all strips will be the same distance from the ceiling.

Strippable: Wallpaper that can be dry stripped from the wall leaving very little paste or residue and no damage to the wall surface.

Substrate: The backing of a wallcovering. it becomes laminated to the design layer.

Usable Yield: The amount of actual wallpaper per double roll that can be hung after taking into consideration the waste in the repeat of the pattern.

Vinyl Coated Paper: Paper wallpaper that has a thin layer of acrylic or vinyl applied over the paper; pattern is printed on that. Generally washable but not scrubbable. Best used in foyers, formal areas, bedrooms, powder rooms.

Vinyl to Vinyl Adhesive: A special adhesive used to make sure two wallpaper stick together; recommended when hanging borders or joining wallpaper a corners.

Wall Preparation: The preliminary work on walls to prepare them for wallcovering application, i.e. patching, sanding, priming.

Washable: A wallcovering that can be cleaned with a sponge, soft towel, mild soap and water.

Water Tray: A specially shaped trough, usually made of plastic, design to hold water for wetting pre-pasted wallpaper before hanging.

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Borders are used to complement wallcovering or as a contrast to painted walls. They are usually placed at the ceiling but are also used around doors and windows and as a chair rail. Borders can be placed at any height on the wall . . . use your imagination!

No matter where you are hanging them, borders should be book-folded and allowed to relax for a minimum ten minutes. Be sure to fold not crease. Gradually unfold as you smooth the border into position and thoroughly rinse the paste off the wall as you go.

TIP: If hanging borders over existing wallcovering or existing border you must use Border Adhesive. For best results, wet and book border ten minutes prior to applying border adhesive.

GETTING STARTED
Sizing the wall surface is an optional step. Measure down from the ceiling the same width as your border. Next, using a level or a bubble stick, draw a light pencil line to indicate where the bottom edge of the border will be positioned. It is important that this line be level. The border can be trimmed where the wall meets the ceiling if necessary. Continue around the room.

Along Ceilings: Start at the same mismatch spot as with the wallcovering you are hanging over; or if hanging over painted walls, start at an inconspicuous corner. Measure enough border to cover the first wall from corner to corner plus 1/2" to turn corner. Hang borders using the pencil line as a guide. Smooth and rinse as you go. At the corner the extra 1/2" should be smoothed into position on the adjacent wall.

Next, measure enough border for the second wall plus 1/2". Begin the second strip by overlapping onto the 1/2" extra from the first strip. Hang border as you did on the first wall. Turn the corner and smooth into position the extra 1/2" from the second strip. Continue in this fashion.

Borders are packaged in 5 yard spools. To maintain the pattern match from spool to spool it will be necessary to overlap and double cut. After hanging the first spool, overlap the next spool onto the first until the patterns of the two strips match. Using a sharp razor blade, cut through both strips, remove the two ends and smooth down.

Continue hanging around the room.

Using a border at chair rail height: If you are using a border at chair rail height, use a level or a bubble stick to draw a line to indicate where the top edge of the border will be
positioned. Hang as you would along the ceiling.

If hanging over a wallcovering, be sure to use Border Adhesive. If different companion wallcoverings are being used above and below where the border chair rail is planned, double cutting will be necessary.

Mark a line where the center of your border will be. Hang the first bottom strip to 1/2" beyond that line. Hang the first upper strip to 1/2" beyond the line creating a 1" overlap. Double cut at the mark. Remove the excess wallcovering. Continue around the room in this manner. Once these companion wallcoverings have been hung, go back marking a level line and hang the border at chair rail position following the previous instructions.

Around Doors and Windows: When hanging borders around doors or windows, double cutting will provide much more professional results. Simply extend each strip past each corner slightly more than the width of the border. Hang the next strip so that it overlaps the previous strip (see diagram). Match the pattern at the corner. Double cut at a diagonal from the corner. Remove excess wallcovering beneath. Continue in this manner. Note: Use a border that does not have a strong directional print to minimize mismatches at each corner.

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These instructions are intended for mural application in normal conditions, using the adhesive provided in a working temperature of 65 to 75 degrees F. The adhesive provided is a water-based paste which is suitable for most walls and doors, but will not adhere to steel, concrete or glass.

A) The wall or door must be clean, dry, primed and sealed prior to installation. DO NOT HANG ON A GLOSS FINISHED DOOR OR WALL.

B) Materials- CONTAINER-to mix glue ROLLER- to spread the glue SCISSORS and KNIFE-to trim the edges, if necessary WALLPAPER BRUSH.

C) Adhesive should be mixed as follows:

Slowly pour the adhesive into warm water, stirring constantly, and allow to thicken for 20 minutes before use. Then fir the design to your wall or door. The gross dimensions of the murals are listed above in the unglued state. These dimensions may increase slightly once the adhesive has been applied and will retain these dimensions once it has dried.

D) To ensure the design is centered, make a guide line by drawing a horizontal line equidistant from floor and ceiling across the wall or door.

E) Apply adhesive to the back of section 1 (bottom left-hand piece) of the mural. Avoid getting any paste on the face of the mural. If you get glue on the face of the mural, wipe gently with a wet sponge before the glue dries. DO  NOT RUB- this may damage the mural.

When pasting DO NOT FOLD the wet sections as with ordinary wallpaper. The section will stick together and become damaged when separating. Handle each section carefully in order not to damage the mural when wet.

Mount the section carefully, drawing the wallpaper brush form the center outwards. Smooth as necessary. Small air bubbles should disappear once the mural has dried.

F) Section 2 should now be placed to the right of section 1. Continue installing the mural sections in positions as indicated.

8 panel                     4 panel                       2 panel                    4 panel panoramic

5  6  7  8                3      4                       2                          1   2    3    4

1  2   3  4               1      2                       1

As mentioned in "C" above, the sections may expand horizontally to a greater or lesser extent once that adhesive has been applied. Therefore, it may be necessary to overlap the horizontal seam 1/4 inch and the vertical seam up to 1/8 inch to achieve the best pattern match.

G) Make sure all seams are brushed or rolled completely.

H) Sit back and admire your new mural!

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How to Hang Your 'KIDDING AROUND WITH MURALS' Wall Mural

These murals are unpasted, and require the following application technique.

SUPPLIES NEEDED

MURAL
Plumb line or level
Paint Roller or Brush
Plastic Smoothing tool
Sponge
Sharp Razor Knife with extra blades
WALLPAPER PASTE

(Use any of the following pastes for easy removal)
-Roman Adhesives TEKNAbond
-Roman Adhesives GH34 – Heavy Weight Adhesive
-Roman Adhesives GH65 – Premium Paste for Pre-pasted Wallpaper
-Roman Adhesives GH95 – Premium Paste
-Roman Adhesives GH79 – E-Z Hang Wallpaper Paste (developed especially for the use with non-woven substrate)

HOW TO HANG

We highly recommend the use of two people when installing a mural. Just follow these simple instructions and your new wall mural will give you and your family a splendid view for years to come!

For best results, start with an application of wallpaper primer.

1. To ensure the wallpaper wall mural is centered, use a level to mark your starting point. When hanging our 3-panel murals we recommend centering the middle panel first, and then move left to right with the other two mural panels. When hanging our single panel murals we recommend positioning the mural accordingly to the designated wall space. Take your time spreading out the wallpaper wall mural.
2. Roll wall mural panel out on work table backside up.
3. Apply paste (not included with mural) evenly to the back of the wall mural panel with a pasting brush or roller. Avoid getting any paste on the face of the mural. If you do get paste on the face of the mural, wipe gently with a wet sponge before the paste dries.
4. (An alternate hanging method would be to paste the area of the wall where the mural will hang. Using the Roman Adhesives GH79 – EZ Hang Wallpaper Paste is suggested for this method as the paste goes on blue then dries clear.)
5. Fold paste sides in toward the center of the panel, making sure picture side is out.
6. Handle each panel carefully in order not to damage the mural. Important: DO NOT crease the folds.
7. Mount the panel carefully by sliding it into position, making sure it lines up to the marked level line. You should have enough time to move and position the wall mural to the accurate location.
8. Using a plastic blade squeegee or clean, damp sponge, gently smooth the panel against the wall, starting from the top. Smooth out all wrinkles and bubbles outward. Work down the panel until it is applied securely. Small air bubbles should disappear once the wall mural completely dries.
9. Wipe the wallpaper mural with a clean damp sponge to remove any excessive paste.
10. Trim salvage edges and apply paste to the second panel and repeat steps 4 & 5.
11. Align panel 2 to the left of panel 1. Smooth down the remaining butted seam. Repeat this procedure with panel 3.
12. When all mural panels have been hung, trim ceiling and baseboard using a straight edge. Take your time trimming and change blades frequently to ensure an accurate cut.
13. Make sure all seams are brushed or rolled completely.
14. Using a clean, damp sponge wipe down the entire wallpaper wall mural to eliminate any paste residue.

Note: Extreme caution should be used when trimming and/or hanging wallcovering around electrical outlets. We recommend turning off all electrical current to the room at the circuit/fuse box.

HOW TO REMOVE  

Start at the top of the wall. Peel back one corner from the wall. Grab the top of the sheet and pull firmly down the wall. No need to score, steam or spray with adhesive remover.

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