Q: What are the basics to tuning?
::: WAXING SKIS & SNOWBOARDS:::
Q: Can I clean my board with chemical or citrus cleaners?
- Like treads in a tire, structure (stone ground patterns) in your base enhance performance and can play a large role in performance. For a detailed discussion (with pictures and video) on this use the About the Seller link above and scroll to the Tuning Tips link at the bottom. A stone ground base should be waxed a couple of times before you take it on the snow.
- Brush off dirt with a brush and reserve this brush for dirt (metal, for example brass, preferred, a steel brush is agressive and should only be used by experienced tuners).
- Then do your edges:
- Base Edge. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel, and if your edges are locking in to a turn too soon, you can move up to 1 degree. To go back to a lower bevel angle you have to resurface the base. Once the base edge bevel is set, maintain it as long as possible using diamond and gumi stones.
- Side Edge. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface.
Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can "rail out" on a less experienced racer. Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 degrees.
Less angle equals less grip. Keep in mind that an aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers (young kids or women) may make it more difficult to recover from being up on the edge.
- After you set your edge angles once, substitute a blue diamond stone for the file so you don't wear down your edges - the stone will sharpen without severe metal removal.
- A 1/1 base/side edge bevel is a typical starting point. A 1/2 would be better for hard pack or icy conditions.
- For a detailed discussion on this use (with pictures) the About the Seller link above and scroll to the Tuning Tips link at the bottom.
- Drip on cheap (the red/warm hydrocarbon we sell is perfect) hydrocarbon wax and scrape while hot to clean base and remove old wax (never use chemical cleaners) - the more you do this (after each or every other time you ride) the faster your ski/board will get because you are infusing more & more wax into the base. Repeat until the wax comes up clean.
- Then wax with the wax you intend to ski/board on. If you are using a fluoro speed wax, use it now, if just a hydrocarbon drip it on, iron and scrape. If using FluoroMax, you must rub it on (racewax fluoro waxes will not drip on) crayon on one layer, then with the iron in one hand soften the wax for 1 second and rub a slightly thicker coat on. Then iron.
- If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax.
- Let the base cool to room temperature
- Scrape off wax (this may take multiple passes)
- Brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to open up the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush is for polishing).
- This step is critical! You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board.
- This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax lubricates and protects the base. If you have too much wax it could add drag (to learn more read about waxes in the Wax Selection link above).
- If you are a non-racer, you are done.
- Repeat again with T-series or Hybrid wax, if desired, (including scraping & brushing)
- Then polish to a shine (use the polishing cloth or an 18-mm horsehair brush)
- If you use powders, add now.
- Sprinkle an even layer of powder or microfiber overlay on the base.
- Spread it evenly with a cork (lightly). A synthetic cork generates more heat than a natural cork and is better for working overlays.
- Work the powder/fiber into the base with a cork in stages. Increase the pressure in each stage.
- In the last stage, use sufficient pressure so as to generate heat.
- Use the horsehair brush lightly to work the overlay into the structure.
- Brush out excess fluoro and polish
Q: Racewax.com waxes don't drip on like other waxes, why not?
- NEVER, use cleaners - use the hot-wax-scrape method to clean. Cleaners are not recommended by ski & board
manufacturers. They dry the base out and it would take lots of waxings to get it right again.
Use the hot wax scrape method to cleanse the
base. Basically you are using a light wax, melting it and scraping while the wax is still liquid.
It cleans and conditions in one
step. Using this method and keeping the base waxed will make it faster with time.
If you already own cleaners, don't throw them away, you can use it to clean scrapers, files and other tools.
Q: Are your waxes compatible with SWIX or TOKO?
- Our unique speed additives make the wax pasty when melted. Rub the wax on as if it was a crayon
(fairly thick, two passes should work), then iron; if the wax is hard,
soften it by touching it to the iron, then rub it on.
By crayoning, you save wax (and money) over the wasteful drip-on method
Q: How many pairs of skis or boards will 100 grams get waxed?
Q: Why doesn't racewax.com have high and low fluoro waxes?
- My Hybrid Series is my best quality and best seller.
It is very compatible with the Swix line and matches up in this way: My 5 = Their 10; 4=8; 3=7; 2=6; 1=4.
The T-Series is a fast wax and a very good value, it just doesn't have the same mixture of speed additives
as the Hybrid and the wax isn't as sophisticated. F-Max is more of a base or first coat/layer wax.
The 1 level may come in handy under your conditions as it is outstanding in the cold; it is a lot like a CH4, it
is hard & hardens fast, but as a racing wax it is much faster. The Microfiber overlay is better in the cold
than any of the CERA powders.
- Our speed additives don't require the regulation of the fluoro to perform well.