I recently retired to the Bahamas after a career in education in England. I
so enjoyed my hobby of offering prints on eBay before emigrating, that I have
decided to resume and look forward to continuing to make still more new friends.
A SHORT
GLOSSARY AND EXPLANATION OF SOME CARTOGRAPHIC TERMS
THE MAIN PRINTING
PROCESSES
Over the centuries there
have been 3 main methods to prepare the 'plate' from which both text and images
were printed
RELIEF
(Wood engravings)
These involved using WOOD
as the material on which the image to be printed was created.
The wood was cut away from the area
which was NOT to be printed, leaving the image to be printed standing up from
the 'block', as it was called. In many cases, notably by the
Illustrated London News, Harpers,
and the numerous similar publications throughout the world, several smaller
blocks were made and then joined to form a single larger print.
For a more comprehensive
study of the history and practice of Wood Engraving
CLICK HERE
INTAGLIO (
Copper
and steel
engravings)
Up to about 1830, COPPER
was used. Then STEEL, which was more durable and enabled many more copies to be
printed from the original 'plate'.
The image was cut INTO the
metal, in 'reverse' or 'mirror' of the original drawing. This was done by using
special engraving tools. ETCHINGS were created by using acid to burn away the
metal.
LITHOGRAPHY ( Surface
printing )
This process was invented
at the end of the 18th century, but did not come into common use until the
latter part of the 19th century, when the process was adapted to mechanisation.
The design was drawn on to
a flat STONE surface, using a greasy ink, which was then 'fixed' chemically.
CHROMOLITHO
This process was a form of
lithograph which involved using many metal and stone plates. Each plate
contained various different parts of the design executed with a range of
coloured inks. These were printed in series to create an image with many tones,
shades and textures.
COLOURING
The very earliest maps and
engravings, by such a
Sebastian MUNSTER,
in the 16th Century, were never intended to be coloured.
It was not until the 17th
Century, when the superb maps by
BLAEU
and others were individually coloured by hand at that time. The depth and
splendour of some of the early colours was based on the preparation of pigments,
some of which are not now available - a lost art.
ORIGINAL COLOUR
Maps and prints which were
coloured at the time of printing. Some care must be taken when buying these, to
ensure that no oxydization has taken place - Greens and browns in particular
tend to 'burn' through the paper. You should always hold any item you are
interested in up to the light, to check not just for any such 'burning', but
also to see whether there are any defects, such as small worm holes, evidence of
repairs, etc.
LATER COLOUR
Many antique maps or prints that
were originally published uncoloured, have had modern colouring applied, or can
be coloured to order. Normally a builder's 'size' will be applied to the surface
of the print before colouring, to prevent the paint 'burning' the paper.
It is very much a matter of
personal taste, as to whether you have any pieces coloured. The purists will
argue that the map or engraving should be left in its original state. Others may
prefer the added enjoyment of seeing their collection in attractive colours,
particularly when the intention is to matt and frame them for display in the
home or work place.
AUTHENTICATION
As ever, in the world of
Antiques, your primary protection is the integrity, expertise and reputation of
the Seller. My husband, before he retired, having spent many years in the map
and print trade, he rarely encountered anything that approached a forgery. It is
perhaps the feel of the paper, the crispness of the printed impression that
distinguish the genuine article. Whenever possible, I provide a photocopy of the
Title page of the Atlas or Book from which the map or print came.
Modern reproductions are
of course on the market, but these are normally quite recognisable as such,
indeed are so modern in appearance as to be readily distinguished from an
original.
Restoration is another
matter. So much antique furniture has been restored or 'married' over the years,
that to find a piece in truly original condition is becoming quite rare. Some
antique maps may have had minor repairs carried out to, say, a slightly torn
fold. It is ALWAYS advisable to hold anything you are considering buying up to a
bright light - this will quickly reveal any repairs or restoration that may have
been carried out.
PAPER USED FOR ANTIQUE
MAPS & PRINTS
When the potential
fragility of maps is considered, it is remarkable that so many have survived in
good condition for over three or four hundred years. We can but admire the
quality of the hand-made paper on which they were produced and the splendid
binding of the early 'Atlases'.
Apart from those
manuscript maps and charts produced on vellum or parchment, most early maps
which we are likely to find were printed on strong, thick hand-made paper from
France, Germany and Switzerland and the finest of all in the Ancona area of
Northern Italy.
In England, paper was made
on a limited scale during the 16th century, but in general French paper was
imported until about 1610, when good home produced handmade paper became
available in quantity. Practically all such paper bore a watermark, which can be
a useful guide in dating a map, although the evidence of such marks should be
treated with caution. A batch of paper might be used for a limited number of
prints over perhaps as long as 20 to 30 years, but considered in conjunction
with other clues, a date of printing can sometimes be closely determined. The
absence of a watermark in no way implies that a map is a fake nor does it have
any effect on value. The size of paper on which maps were produced was almost
standard and was conditioned by the size of the trays used in paper making - 28
x 24 ins.- and by the size of the presses available.
In the early days of
paper-making, hand-made paper was produced almost entirety from linen and rags
pulped in water. After thorough mixing, a close meshed wire tray was dipped into
the pulp and sufficient lifted out to give the required thickness of paper. The
water was drained off, the sheet subsequently dried between layers of felt and
then hung to dry. The wire mesh of the tray produced the vertical and horizontal
lines apparent on holding the paper up to the light.
The industrial revolution,
brought with it great advances in paper making.
For more detailed information,
please see :-
American Museum of Papermaking
SOME CARTOGRAPHIC TERMS
-
SIZES
-
FOLIO - THE OVERALL PAPER
SIZE WILL BE AROUND 25x20 INCHES (650x500mm)
-
QUARTO [4to] - AN OVERALL
SIZE OF ABOUT 13x10 inches (320x250mm). (Roughly equivalent to a modern normal
A4 letter heading size)
-
OCTAVO [8vo] - THE OVERALL
SIZE IS some 7x5 inches (180x125mm)
-
DATES
- Dates stated are those when the item was actually published/printed. I
NEVER offer modern date reproductions.
Please note that dates shown in square brackets, e.g. [1830] are approximate
or circa.
-
ARTIST
- The Latin abbreviation 'del', or ' delin' means that the original was DRAWN
by.
-
CARTOGRAPHER - A map maker or
geographer.
-
CARTOUCHE
- The decorative design, usually surrounding the Title Panel.
See further example.
-
ENGRAVER
- A specialist who transferred the artist's drawing onto the 'plate'. The Latin
words 'sculp', or 'sculspit' may proceed his name.
-
FOXING - A light brown speck or spot
which appears on some old maps or prints. Due to aging, and caused by a fungus.
Easily cleaned, but cleaning is usually best left to a professional. NEVER
attempt to clean a map or engraving which has original colouring.
-
LAID DOWN - This process is usually
used to protect a damaged map. Great care should be exercised before buying any
laid down item. The map or print has been stuck or glued down on to card or
other suitable backing.
-
PLATE - The wood, copper, steel or
lithographic base used to engrave the image. On many prints and marks the 'Plate
Mark' is clearly visible. A small indentation in the paper, a few inches inside
the outer extremities of the paper. This occurred when the printing 'pressed'
the plate onto the paper.
-
VIGNETTE - please see our
FEATURE PAGE which
contains several scanned images of Vignette Views. Some maps contain small
vignettes, Particularly those by
John TALLIS.
-
WATERMARK - A normally invisible
emblem and/or date incorpated into the paper when it was made. Held up to the
light, the watermark is normally visible. Not all early paper was produced with
a watermark.
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