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Antique Learning Center
Buying antiques is a wonderful pastime, from the thrill of the hunt to the pride you feel seeing the piece in your home. But when you're buying antiques, how do you know if the piece is any good, or if it's worth the asking price. First of all, determine if it’s a true antique—that is, a piece that’s at least 100 years old (anything else is “vintage” or a “collectible”). Then, if you love the item and the pleasure you would derive from it is proportional to the cost, you should get it. However, if the piece is expensive and you are concerned about whether it’s worth the asking price, there are certain tests you can conduct when buying antiques to help determine a piece's quality.
Examine the finish for natural signs of wear. Authentic pieces will have dirt in crevices or in places that are hard to clean, and wear around knobs and on drawers caused by friction. The absence of such wear may indicate that the piece is not old, or that it has been refinished. The latter is not necessarily bad if it’s been done well, but it will lower the piece’s value in most instances. Look inside and underneath the piece for dribbles of stain that indicate an improper refinishing job.
The exterior of the piece should be a uniform color, except for variations that would naturally occur through exposure to the elements and use. Surface blemishes and scars are acceptable, but burn marks can’t be taken out or painted over without cutting out that section of wood, so avoid buying antiques with a burn unless you can live with it. If the furniture has a veneer, look for broken or missing pieces, or sections that are a different color evidence the veneer has been poorly patched. If there’s a decorative inlay or applied carving, make sure no pieces are missing.
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Antique Furniture Buying Tips |
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Look Inside, Under & Behind
The interior or back of the piece may be a different color or finish, but it, too, should be uniform; irregularities indicate that the piece has been repaired. Look at the corner blocks underneath a chair, table or cabinet. The blocks should be the same color as surrounding wood; variations in color or texture are a sign that the corner blocks have been replaced.
Check the drawers. Make sure they slide in and out without resistance or wobbling. Most pieces of furniture made before 1900 will have dovetail joints on the drawers. Dovetails will be precise on pieces made after the advent of the machine age in the 1830s or 1840s dovetails executed before that will be uneven and done by hand. Butt joints are a sign of inferior workmanship.
Examine the knobs and drawer pulls. Are any missing? Is there a telltale shadow or outline in a different shape, indicating that the hardware has been replaced? Look behind the door and drawer where the hardware is affixed for old drill holes, holes that have been plugged or modern screws and bolts—indications that this may not be the original hardware. Replacements are not necessarily a bad thing, as long as the new hardware is appropriate to the piece and of proportional quality.
Will the company guarantee the piece as advertised? If the answer is yes, the description should be written on your receipt. If not, the dealer may be uncertain about its provenance. Ask if any repairs have been done. Repairs don’t mean a piece is bad, but you should know what you’re getting before you buy. Ask the seller if the piece is worth the value. If the seller is offended or rude when answering then usually you want to avoid the piece. If the seller is polite and kind this is a good sign the piece is worth the value.
If you’re unsure about a piece and it’s expensive, get a second opinion from a friend who is knowledgeable about antiques or whose taste you trust. Ask the dealer if he or she will hold the piece for you until you return. If not, ask yourself how you’d feel if the piece weren’t there when you got back. If the heartbreak you’d experience would exceed the disappointment you’d feel paying more for the piece than it’s worth, buy it.
- How old is old enough to be antique?
According to the U.S. Customs Service, an antique is an item with at least 100 years of age. That means that genuine Victorian pieces are now true antiques. However, the term antique is used rather loosely and often ends up reflecting the age of the person using it.
- What is considered collectible?
Anything with value that people collect.
- How do you know something is old?
The more you look at, handle and learn about real antiques, the easier it is to distinguish old from new. Some general things to look for are materials not often used in modern production, hand applied ornamentation that may be machine applied today and styling that might be indicative of a certain time period such as the Art Deco period or Arts & Crafts movement. Antiques and older collectibles are not going to be absolutely new looking in most cases. This is why people pay so much more for items in mint condition, because they don’t crop up as often as pieces with telltale signs of aging and wear.
- How can I tell if a piece a reproduction is?
In general, if it looks new, it probably is. For example, a piece represented as depression glass that doesn’t have signs of wear on the base is probably new. Even pieces that sat on a kitchen shelf for years without much use still got moved often enough to show some wear on the base. Of course, you need to realize that there are tricksters out in the world who will soak linens in tea to make them look aged or beat a piece of furniture with a chain to make it look worn and weathered. The best thing you can do to guard against reproductions is to learn as much as possible about your collecting preferences and pay attention to details that indicate something isn’t quite right. Buying more expensive pieces from a reputable dealer is another good way to avoid being taken.
- How can I find values for my collectibles?
You can start with the list of price guides visiting online auctions to look up past results or logging on to a large antique mall’s site and searching the inventory for comparison pricing are two more convenient ways of assessing approximate value. You’ll want to keep in mind that online pricing, especially in auctions, can reflect values far less than prices dealers tend to ask in brick and mortar shops and at antiques shows. You can always research the old-fashioned way by seeing what types of books on antiques are on hand in your local library. Or, make a trip to a large bookstore and see what you can find there. When you’re reading collectibles guides, remember that the prices are often inflated and you might not actually be able to sell an item for that much. Authors sometimes use erratic auction prices in their valuation averages. Values also vary from coast to coast and from rural to urban areas. |
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Determining Value |
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Determining the value of an antique means more than locating an item in a price guide or auction results. There are a number of factors to consider when deciding how much your antiques are really worth. With a little effort, patience and learning about your favorite antiques categories, along with these guidelines, you can learn to value it yourself like an appraisal pro.
· Don't Overlook a Mark
Whether we like it or not, items stamped with a manufacturers or designers mark are often worth more than identical pieces with no signature. Use a magnifying glass, if necessary, to make sure you don't overlook a mark that may add value and assist you with further research. With hand painted and hand crafted pieces, finding an artist's signature in addition to a manufacturer's mark is a boon. Be sure to examine each piece carefully for these valuable identifying signs.
· Consider Condition
One of the most important factors to consider when you value an antique is condition. Even when you locate an item in a price guide, if your piece isn't in comparable condition then do further research. Take all flaws into consideration including chips, cracks, excessive wear, tears, stains and missing components. Look for anything that keeps your antique from being in like new or "mint" condition and take that into consideration when determining value.
· Is It Common or Rare
There are times when an extremely rare antique with condition factors will still be worth quite a good amount. For instance, if you determine that you own a piece of Majolica pottery with a hairline crack, it may still be worth quite a nice sum. However, if you own a cracked piece of Art Deco glass, it probably won't hold much more than decorative value. If you're not sure about how rarity determines the value in the area you're researching, check with an expert in that field before discarding a damaged item.
· Old Doesn't Always Mean Valuable
Much of an item's value lies in the buyer's demand. There are many items over 100 years old now that aren't in high demand. Take time pieces from the early 1900s as an example. Many of these time pieces survived over the years making them too common to hold much value. On the other hand, if you own a hard to find designer timepiece of the same age, it's likely worth more. There are times when a timepiece can be worth $600 or more to an avid collector or dealer.
· Is it Real or Fake
If an item has been in your family for many generations and you know the provenance, you can feel reasonably sure you're dealing with an authentic antique. But if you purchase an item at a shady flea market, many times you'll have to authenticate it before you can truly determine the value. Look for telltale signs of wear and age, along with discrepancies in marks and signatures. Subtle details can often provide clues to the true age of an object.
· Has It Been Restored or Repaired
Professional restoration can add value to a rare antique, but amateur repairs affect value negatively in most cases. It's important to evaluate a piece to discern whether it has been haphazardly repaired or the original value-adding patina has been removed. If glue is present, solders are easily detected, or chips have obviously been ground down, an antique or collectible should be valued accordingly. Minor repairs may not affect the value of a piece at all. Ask an expert if you're not sure.
· Does It Have Salvage Value
Just because an antique or collectible is broken or damaged doesn't necessarily render it totally worthless. Many dealers will buy items they can repair or use for parts to repair other pieces. Severely damaged antiques are sometimes transformed by two pieces becoming one called a marriage, or crafters will purchase them for supplies. Depending on the extent of the damage and the item's relative usefulness, it may still hold some value. It's wise to check around before banishing it to the dumpster.
· Consider Current Market Influences
If you've located an item in a price guide or auction results, does the information reflect current markets? Prices for antiques and collectibles can fluctuate widely and quickly depending on current demand. Prices may drop down to pre-demand levels once the boom has passed, or they may remain high due to diminished supply as dealers have difficulty replenishing inventories. It's important to watch the markets in your favorite collecting categories and stay on top of value-affecting trends.
· Ask an Expert Friend for Advice
Many times appraisers will indicate they've consulted with their colleagues when determining values. Don't be afraid to ask a well-versed friend or a dealer you trust for their opinion. Sometimes your educated judgment will overrule what they've shared, but it's good to get the advice of others when you're feeling a bit uncertain about valuing an item, especially those seldom seen on the secondary market.
· Think About Common Values for Common Pieces
Appraisers most often value antiques based on the median value rather than the highest or lowest prices realized for similar items. There are times when a piece will sell very high at auction, but the same item will bring a more moderate price at an antique show. Rarities are more difficult to value, however. The most recent selling price may be a good indicator of expected market value when pricing a rare item. |
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Care of Antique Furniture |
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Antique Wood Furniture, because of its value, should be approached carefully by any do-it-yourselfer. It is always more desirable with the original finish. Avoid extremes of humidity and temperature, which accelerate cracking and checking of finish, and loosen joints and veneer. Never set beverage glasses, vases of flowers, etc. on surfaces without coasters or mat protection. Vacuum or dust surfaces with a soft cloth. Occasionally use a cloth just barely dampened with solvent-based cleaning wax to wipe the surface to pick up more dust, and immediately wipe with a dry cloth or soft paper towel. Never use spray waxes or polishes on surfaces. They leave a residue and create a higher gloss. Many spray and cream waxes contain silicones, which may make future refinishing more difficult.
Occasionally wax with a hard paste wax with carnauba. Rub on a very light coat with a soft cloth in the direction of the grain of the wood. Some woodworkers suggest putting a lump of wax inside a few layers of folded cotton cheesecloth and rubbing it onto wood thus preventing heavy smears. Next buff at once with soft cloth, turning often, until wax coating is hard. Be sure all wax is completely buffed until hard to avoid smears and streaks. A small electric polisher can save effort, but be careful not to burnish the wood by pressing too hard in any position. Wipe the surface gently with clean soft cloth after applying wax to remove any loosened soil and then let set several minutes before buffing. An occasional re-buffing will renew a soft gloss. Paste wax helps to cover small cracks and checks in old finishes, and can easily be removed with mineral spirits when desired.
Antiques that have been refinished should be treated according to type of finish as described in other sections. Since old finishes may be affected by cleaning treatments, always test the first time on an inconspicuous place on the furniture to be sure it is compatible with the finish. Lacquer is hard and glossy, but is also brittle so it may be dented or chipped. Avoid hard blows. Avoid use of water unless the furniture label recommends it. The newer synthetic lacquers are more durable; however, older lacquered pieces and many imports have finishes affected by some solvents, so test every product first on an inconspicuous area.
You will want to dust regularly with a soft, dry cloth. Never use oiled or treated cloths on lacquered finishes. Some finishes can be wiped with a damp (not wet) cloth, followed at once by rubbing with a dry cloth to remove fingerprints and smudges. A solvent-based furniture cleaner may be useable on many finishes, but always test first. Apply liquid wax on occasion to maintain a gloss. When heavy cleaning is called for, use solvent base furniture cleaner. Apply with a soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with a soft cloth in other hand, doing only a small area at a time. Oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes, but test first to be sure it is ok with finish. Protect with liquid wax or polish to maintain a gloss.
The oil finish can have many names, from countries (i.e., French, Danish, and Dutch) to brands. Basically cleaning oiled wood requires you blend 1 pint boiled linseed oil, 1 pint gum turpentine, and 6 oz. distilled white vinegar. Gum turpentine is flammable but smells like fresh wood. Wear gloves. Do not use around flames or sparks, and do not get on skin. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil, then wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get gummy or tacky. To finish, rub with the grain.
Never use wax or furniture polish on oil finishes. Re-oil yearly with boiled linseed oil, Tung oil, or a product recommended by the manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for furniture. Avoid using oil dressing too often or too liberally as it will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits to dissolve the residue. Painted finish furniture requires regular dusting with a damp cloth. When very soiled, wash with a solution of mild, non-abrasive detergent and warm water. Wring a cloth nearly dry and work on a small section at a time, then rinse with clear water. Dry the surface before continuing.
Waxes and polishes are usually not needed. If waxes are used, use a white creamy type on light painted items to avoid discoloration. Never use oil or any polish containing oil. Avoid oil treated cloths. Hand rubbing any polish can damage painted decoration or trim. Painted surfaces can be carefully touched up with matching paint but the results often look patched. Where possible, try to remove spots and scuff marks by washing or cleaning with household cleaners. Sanding will change the luster of the sanded spot, especially if the finish has been antiqued. If extensive damage has been done, the piece will need repainting. Very old pieces with their original finish should usually not be repainted or refinished as you may remove the indications of its authenticity and antique value.
Polyurethanes are liquid plastic resins that dry to a durable satin or gloss finish. Polyurethane finishes are much more resistant to moisture and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need much protection. Most manufactured furniture is not polyurethane coated, as it requires considerably more drying time and undercoat work to apply commercially. Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth and wipe dry. When needed, wipe with a moist cloth, not wet. This will remove fingerprints and light soil. When dirt or grime have built up, clean with mineral spirits.
Wax or polish can build into an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing. Old furniture may have a shellac finish, probably refinished at home. Knotty pine rooms also were normally treated with shellac. Keep moisture away from shellac surfaces. Water or a damp environment, as in humidity, makes shellac sticky. Test in an inconspicuous spot with denatured alcohol; shellac will dissolve quickly. Vacuum or dusts regularly with a soft, dry cloth; do not use oiled or treated cloth.
You may protect the finish with a liquid furniture wax or cream polish that gives the desired gloss. If dirty, clean with either a cleaning polishing wax for furniture. Follow the directions on the label for cleaning, or use a solution of equal parts of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Moisten a soft cloth with cleaner and rub briskly, changing cloth when soiled. If surface is very dirty, process may have to be repeated. Use 3/0 or 4/0 steel wool to remove stubborn soil and smooth roughened places. If finish is in poor condition, use denatured alcohol to remove, and refinish with modern finish. Varnished wood should be protected with a furniture wax. As wax and varnish are perishable, protect surfaces from water, alcohol, other liquids, foods and cosmetics. Table pads, glass tabletops and other coverings work best.
Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth. If the finish is waxed, do not use oiled or treated cloths, as they may make the wax sticky. Occasional rubbing of surface with clean, dry, soft cloth removes smudges and dust and leaves sheen. Some varnish finishes may be wiped with a moist cloth to remove fingerprints and light soil, followed at once by rubbing with a clean dry cloth. Test first on an inconspicuous spot to be sure this does not damage varnish. Do not get varnish wet, or allow a damp cloth to stand on it.
When dirt or grime have built up, clean with a solvent-based furniture cleaner polish, or wax. Use one that gives the desired gloss compatible with varnish gloss, high or low luster. Most polishes and waxes leave a layer of wax on surfaces to protect the finish. When cleaning, do only a small area at a time and wipe dry with clean cloth. Waxed surfaces may be buffed occasionally to restore shine. Re-wax if buffing does not restore a shine.
Excess wax or polish is an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or synthetic turpentine. Should the furniture be badly soiled due to neglect, use very fine 3/O or 4/O steel wool instead of a cloth and rub with the grain of the wood. Some finishes can be damaged by prolonged contact with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Discard steel wool as it becomes soiled. When using mineral spirits, turpentine, or other solvents, including solvent-based cleaners, follow all label warnings. They are flammable, so don't use near any flame spark, or pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing.
Some varnishes may be washed if badly soiled. Test this method first in an inconspicuous spot; if it streaks, or turns white and hazy stop, if ok to proceed, use solution of mild detergent and lukewarm water. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth. Wash, rinse and dry only a small area at a time, working fast to avoid over-wetting the finish. Avoid excess water, especially around joints. When completely dry, polish or wax. In most cases, it saves time and energy to clean with furniture polish/wax in the first place. Oil soaps may clean satisfactorily on some varnish finishes; test first in an inconspicuous spot.
Test for Existing Finish on Furniture
- Rub a Few Drops of Boiled Linseed Oil Into the Wood - If it absorbs, the wood has an oil finish. If it beads up, the wood has a hard finish.
- Rub Acetone Over a Spot in a Gentle, Circular Motion - Polyurethane finishes shed acetone like water. Lacquer dissolves in 30 seconds with rubbing. Varnishes and shellacs turn to a sticky, gel-like substance after a minute or two.
- Try a Few Drops of Denatured Alcohol - Shellac dissolves quickly in denatured alcohol. Varnish reacts slowly.
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Care of Your Antique Furniture |
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No one intentionally ruins an antique, right? But lots of people do make costly mistakes caring for antiques every day simply because they don't know any better. Read on for valuable information to keep you from making an error you'll live to regret, especially if you try to sell a treasured antique in the future.
· Improper Cleaning
Cleaning some antiques makes them more desirable and valuable, but that's not always the case. For instance, cleaning the patina from a really hard to find antique bronze can diminish the value greatly, while gently washing a rare piece of Art Deco glass will not damage it a bit. It's wise to do some research to find out how cleaning will impact the value of an antique before you begin. Talk to an expert collector or dealer in the particular area you're researching, if needed.
· Refinishing Furniture
Should you always refinish antique furniture definitely not. In fact, the less is more rule should be applied in most cases. If you happen to have a rare antique, or maybe even a furniture masterpiece, removing the original finish can be disastrous. Many times a gentle cleaning will suffice. More common pieces can be refinished, but do yourself a favor and read up on antique furniture if you don't know how to tell the difference.
· Displaying in Sunlight
What do old paper, vintage textiles and early plastics have in common? They're all susceptible to damage from direct sunlight. Paper, including photographs, will yellow and crack, the vibrant colors in textiles will fade, and plastics will melt rendering a piece you'll no longer be proud to own or pass down to the grandchildren. Take care to display your antiques and collectibles in dimly lit areas or for short periods of time in sunny rooms. Always avoid direct sunlight.
· Amateur Restoration
Restoring an antique to its original glory might seem like a good idea, and sometimes it is. But a do-it-yourself paint job on the antique table you inherited from your great-grandmother is a no-no. This is another area where an expert's advice will be invaluable. Leave the more complicated restoration projects to professionals.
· Improper Storage
If we could create a museum setting in our homes, it would be the perfect environment for our antiques and collectibles. In most instances that's not possible, but we do need to be mindful of proper storage in order to preserve an item's rich in history for posterity. Keep heirlooms out of unusually damp areas like basements and overly hot areas like attics, if at all possible. In general, if you store your treasures where you're comfortable, they'll be comfortable too.
- Care of lacquer finished Wood Furniture
Immediately clean spills or smudges of foodstuffs or beverages with a soft clean cloth, preferably by blotting to avoid scratches. Frequently dust the exposed surfaces with a clean soft natural cloth that is damp with water. Dry the surface with another dry cloth. Infrequently polish your furniture with a non-silicon base furniture polish made by a reputable manufacturer. Follow instructions, but do dust immediately before polishing and use soft natural cloth. If surface damage occurs, please contact a professional furniture refinisher. Direct sunlight could cause some deterioration of the original finish over time. Strive to keep your valuable furniture items shielded from daily exposure to sunlight.
· Care of Metal Frames
The metal frames, table bases, are made of different materials and by different methods of manufacturing. Finishes may be painted, powder coated, etc. Generally these finishes are protected with a clear surface coat of a lacquer type product and can be cared for by simple dusting. Take care that these surfaces are protected from significant scratches as they could chip or peel from the abuse.
- Care of Marble, Granite and other Stone Surfaces
Clean stone surfaces with a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Use a soft cloth. Too much soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar, or other acids. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. Change the rinse water frequently. Do not use scouring powders or creams; these products contain abrasives that may scratch the surface. |
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Removing Buildup |
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Sometimes all it takes to bring furniture back to its original look is a simple removal of the build up that has accumulated over the years. The original finish is simply hiding beneath the dust and dirt that has attached itself to the tiny crevices of our furniture. Old dirt, polish, grease, and wax can all be removed safely and carefully to bring out that special look your wood furniture once had. The original sheen and the glory of the wood's grain can once again shine in all its glory.
It is important that the furniture's finish is sturdy and not broken down. If it has broken down, you can tell because of its sticky appearance. If that is the case, then you will need to completely redo the furniture. If the finish is intact, follow the instructions here to renew its original status. Take a soft, clean cloth and dip it into some paint thinner. Make sure that the area where you are working is properly ventilated. Replace the lid to the container of paint thinner to avoid any unnecessary spillage. Never pour the paint thinner directly onto the furniture. Wipe up any spills immediately.
Use the cloth to thoroughly wipe the furniture. It's best to work in the direction of the grain of the wood. Make sure that you wipe down every surface area. Pay special attention to areas that include crevices, ledges, and lips. Attempt to fit part of the cloth into those areas to remove the build up that has surely gathered there. If you have any doubt that the paint thinner will mar your furniture in any way, begin in an inconspicuous spot. Once the furniture is dry, check it out thoroughly to see if you have been thorough - it is possible that you might have inadvertently missed a few spots. Repeat as necessary.
Additionally, it is necessary to thoroughly soak the rags with water immediately after using. Otherwise, the rags might spontaneously combust due to the combination of the paint thinner and the furniture's finish on the rags. Dispose of them properly. Now, you are ready to finish the furniture to renew the original luster, reduce blemishes, and add a bit of protection. Simply put an application of a finishing wax on the furniture. Use a paste for the best results. To maintain your furniture, be sure to periodically wipe the furniture clean. You can use a soft, clean cloth to buff the furniture to a brilliant shine. |
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Tips for Finishing Your Own Furniture |
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There is no doubt that furniture is a major investment, often costing many thousands of dollars and taking lots of time to choose. It just makes sense then to keep your furniture investments in tip top shape and to learn how to enjoy the longest useful life from the furniture you buy. Refinishing and repairing your own furniture is not as difficult a process as you may think, but it is important to gain the knowledge needed, and to gather the tools you will need to complete the job.
There are a number of items every furniture refinisher should have in his or her toolbox, and the time to gather these tools and supplies is before the finishing project begins. Make sure you have the following items on hand:
- Sandpaper of varying grits
- A supply of quality paintbrushes in various sizes
- Plenty of old rags
- Stain and rubber gloves
- Plenty of patience
Of course before you can start that finishing project and start honing your skills, you will need some furniture to finish or refinish. If you already have a great piece of furniture that has seen better days, by all means get started and give it a new look. If you prefer to buy new furniture, you may be able to save a great deal of money by buying unfinished furniture and finishing it yourself. Many parts of the country have one or more of these unfinished furniture stores, and the discounts compared to traditional furniture stores are often substantial.
One of the hardest decisions in the process will be how to finish this raw furniture. There are a number of choices, from the most traditional to the most unique and contemporary. Many people will choose to simply match the finish of their furniture with the overall décor of the home. Others may choose to stain and finish the furniture with a clear top coat and a good quality stain.
There is a difference, of course, between painting and staining furniture. The biggest difference is that paint is opaque, designed to cover the surface of the wood. Stains, on the other hand, are transparent, designed to allow the natural beauty of the wood to shine through.
The clear coat or top coat that goes on top of the stain comes in a variety of choices as well, including flat, semi-gloss or shiny. The type of top coat you choose will depend on your own tastes and needs. Some of the newer polyurethane finishes are designed for do-it-yourself furniture refinishers in mind, and they are easy to apply, fast drying and easy to clean up as well. In addition, many of these new top coats are nearly fume free, unlike some other choices.
Other popular choices for finishing or refinishing furniture include a personal touch. Hand painted finishes are very popular these days, and many people find that they can give their creativity free reign when they hand paint their own furniture. No matter what your level of artistic skill, you may want to give hand painting a try. It is of course a good idea to begin your artistic expressions with an inexpensive piece of furniture, such as a small bookcase purchased at an unfinished furniture store. |
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Restoring Antique Furniture
Points to Consider Before Refinishing Antique Furniture
- Is your piece out of the ordinary? Is it a masterpiece or classic example of craftsmanship? Make sure refinishing won’t diminish the value of your furniture.
- Was your furniture made by a notable craftsman or manufacturer, regardless of its age? Look for any marks or labels that might indicate the origin on the bottom or back of the piece.
- Would it be feasible just to give the piece a good cleaning and make minor repairs such as replacing missing brasses? Always choose the least invasive method for making a piece of antique furniture usable in your home.
- Focus on restoration rather than revamping whenever possible, especially with valuable pieces of furniture.
What to Do Before a Restoration Project
Before you tackle a restoration project, take some time to inspect the piece of furniture for any identifying labels or marks that might help you research its origin. Look at the overall quality of the wood and craftsmanship, including any carving present. If it turns out to be an extremely valuable item, leave it alone. Any fixer-up tasks accomplished on a piece like that should be left to a professional who works with high-end antique furniture.
If it turns out that the piece isn’t a rare antique, it’s still better to take the path of least resistance when possible. If the piece has held together pretty well over time, try just cleaning out the dirt and giving it a good dusting. Even with furniture that isn’t of masterpiece caliber, most tried and true collectors value an original finish. Sometimes a once over cleaning and a little glue to hold the joints together securely will do a world of good. When that’s still not enough, figure out just how much restoration to the finish and components will be necessary to make it presentable. Again though, try to determine whether or not the item is a rarity before you alter it extensively. Those really hard to find period pieces can be well worth restoring, and still hold quite a bit of value even with newly manufactured repairs when they are professionally done. |
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Antique Furniture Decoration |
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While antique lovers frequently boast about the quality of specific furniture pieces - referring to wood, joints and overall design - it's quite often the style of decoration that sets them apart as works of art. Carving, gilding, inlay, veneer - these are just a few decoration methods that give antique furniture pieces their signature style.
Carving refers to the shaping and paring of wood with chisels or other sharp tools. The carving of some pieces, especially the intricate carvings of the middle to late Victorian era, displays the unsurpassed artistry of furniture carvings. Excellence might be evident in a botanical scene carved onto a wooden chair back or revealed by ornately carved table legs. In any case, densely-grained woods are best for carving.
Inlay is also created with chisels. A piece of furniture may be enhanced by carving small notches in the wood for fitting precious metals, stones or minerals into place. Ivory, abalone and mother-of-pearl were popular choices to use for inlay. The more expensive the inlay, the more valuable the piece of furniture on the whole. Many inlay designs feature actual scenes or objects portrayed by the pattern by which the precious material is laid. Ornate inlay can be quite exquisite and render a piece a substantial work of art and craftsmanship.
Veneer was a commonly used decoration style for furniture. A less valuable wood might construct something like a desk or large armoire. To cover this coarser variety, sheets of fine wood would be applied over the piece. In fact, many kinds of precious wood, such as satinwood, were reserved only for veneer because it was quite rare. Veneer by no means would render a piece less worthy of top-notch status. However, a solid piece of mahogany furniture is necessarily more valuable than one featuring a veneer surface of mahogany. Of course, this is not always the case depending on the era of the piece and quality of workmanship.
Marquetry is a veneer style that employs different wood veneers to create a design or pattern. Marquetry can be intensely pleasing as it so often creates a one-of-a-kind piece. Contrasting wood colors form pleasing arrangements to render the piece, again, a work of elegant artistry. An ancient craft, it also can resemble inlay - only the work is in wood veneer as opposed to precious metals like silver or gold.
Oak furniture was painted as early as the fourteenth century. While popular today, painted antiques of the eighteenth century, for example, might be painted with borders or interesting focal points and then covered with varnish. Later pieces of furniture were painted to resemble precious wood grain or marble.
Gilding refers to covering a piece with precious metal such as gold leaf. Unlike inlay, there is no carving involved. There is usually an element that operates like an adhesive so that the gold leaf will adhere to the wood's surface. Bronze and copper were also frequent gilded metals used to cover a surface.
Lacquering, not surprisingly, was sometimes termed "japanning," as it was indeed an Oriental finish. As the Chinoiserie style commanded a prominent role during the Victorian and even earlier eras, lacquered furniture was considered quite a la mode. Not simply a matter of decoupage, authentic Oriental lacquered antiques might contain up to two hundred layers of lacquer - a painstaking process that rendered the object almost glistening with satin-like luster.
Finding antiques decorated with any of these styles can be a most enjoyable experience. Some pieces might contain various types of decoration together - a Marquetry tabletop later coated with lacquer, for instance. Personal taste will ultimately determine what decoration appeals to you - some styles like gilt work are quite showy, perhaps even gaudy for some tastes. However, when the artistry is first rate, the value of the antique will doubtlessly be apparent upon close inspection. |
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Wood Varieties |
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Distinguishing one wood from another can take time, but is necessary when it comes to purchasing and restoring antique furniture. Many antique pieces are covered with veneer, a precious layer of wood atop a lesser quality wood. Often, the wood can easily be identified by searching out an unfinished area. The following text discusses various types of wood used in many antique pieces of furniture.
Birch: First used as a veneer in the 1700s. A very fine grain and regular texture, birch wood is a creamy-white with golden hues. It has unique luster of its own.
Mahogany: Mainly derives from the West Indies and parts of Central America. A popular import, mahogany wood is a strong wood with a deep red color. Many antiques are made with mahogany as it was one of the most popular woods for furniture making in the nineteenth century. Today’s mahogany is more course than its former self that displayed more characteristic finesse.
Rosewood: Brazilian import, is somewhat similar to mahogany, but contains tell-tale nearly black streaks across its reddish wood. Common to nineteenth century European antiques (also used in 18th century), rosewood can be difficult to polish.
Kingwood: From the West Indies and dramatically resembles rosewood; however, its streaks are more purple-hued and fade to a light gray-brown when set in light.
Satinwood: From the East and West Indies. West Indies satinwood has a stronger gleam to its honey-colored wood. The paler, East Indian strains produce more delicate graining; this variety was used to make English Sheraton-style pieces.
Walnut: Commonly used wood, took a back seat to mahogany by the middle of the 18th century. Essentially used in cabinet-making, walnut enjoyed resurgence in popularity toward the latter half of the nineteenth century where it was used to construct everything from planks to chairs.
Tulipwood: Pinkish tint to grain and is a smoothly-textured wood of considerable beauty. Native to Brazil and Peru, tulipwood was very often used to produce parquet floors.
Amaranth: Dark brown wood of dense grain. It was most frequently used as a veneer in France. Amaranth is sometimes referred to as purple heart. It was especially popular in the 17th century.
Other commonly used woods that produced antiques were oak, pine and yew. Because different types of woods require individual kind of care, learning to denote the differences between them allows one to care for and restore them properly. Also, certain types of wood pieces fetch higher prices than other kinds. Knowing the difference means knowing what you are paying for. In other words, you do not want to overpay for a lesser antique and you will certainly want to snatch a quality piece at a bargain rate.
When assessing a piece of furniture, look it over carefully; pull out drawers to discover what type of veneer covers what type of wood. Antique furniture is a lovely investment and an emblem of its era of origination. Loving antiques means learning about their make up to give them the best possible care. |
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