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Some interesting and important observations about vintage patterns, vintage sewing and vintage style...
EASE: Why it's important and why it's different in a vintage pattern versus a contemporary one...
Pattern companies actually have not changed sizing since 1968 - 1970. When you're shopping for a vintage pattern and you see that little "NEW SIZING" pink square logo on the front of a pattern, that dates the pattern to those years. The entire commercial pattern industry enlarged their sizing during those years. First they enlarged the measurements (1968-69) and then a few years later (1972-73) they enlarged waists again. These changes were the last made to the size of the body with regard for the size of the garment.
If you compare the sizing charts from the back of a pattern from prior to 1968 with a pattern from around 1970 to one from after 1973, you can see the differences as shown below:
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Early 1960's Butterick |
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1968 Vogue (note the pink logo and increased measurements) |
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Note the waist measurements are 1" larger than before |
There has always been fitting ease incorporated into garments -- it's usually only 1 to 2" more (circumference-wise) than the body measurements. So if you take a peg skirt pattern from 1955 and you measure the garment at the hips, it will probably only be 2" larger than the hip measurement for that size on the envelope -- that's fit ease.
However, starting in the late 1970's, we began changing our perceptions of fashion and what shapes and types of garments we generally feel comfortable wearing. In the 1980's when those big boxy, loose fitting garments came into style, we got used to those garments.
Those over-sized loose fitting garments have extra ease. That's called style ease -- it's additional ease beyond the fitting ease that creates the larger silhouette of those boxy, loose garments. Well, we got used to that ease and now we find constrictive garments difficult to wear.
The sizing charts of contemporary patterns still lists a size 12 as having a 34" bust, 26½" waist, and 36" hip. But, when you open up the actual pattern tissue and start measuring, you'll find that there is usually 4 to 6" ease built into the pattern. That's probably at least partly style ease, not wearing ease -- but it's still there because most of us don't want to wear things close to our bodies any more.
We also tend to avoid garments with high tight armholes, narrow shoulders and non-elastic waistbands. A good many of today's ready-to-wear garments are made with stretch fabrics - fabric and fiber technological advances have made stretch wovens a comfortable fact of life, so even when we have a closer fitting garment, we can still bend and move with comfort.
Our mothers, grandmothers and greatgrandmothers didn't have that luxury. They wore restrictive foundation garments all the time. Those smaller measurements and the lack of ease were possible because of the serious girdles and other shapewear that women wore...
Never purchase a vintage pattern because it's the same number size as what you buy off the rack (retail). I recommend always checking the measurements when you are shopping for a vintage pattern. Unless you know how to grade the pattern larger or smaller to accomodate your figure, you should always choose a pattern that's very close to your bust measurement (usually waist and hips are easier to alter). I will always include the basic pertinent measurements you'll need in every pattern I have listed. And if you need additional information from the back of any pattern, you can always email me.
When you first decide you're going to sew up a vintage pattern, you need to take a look at the pattern and the instructions.
Vintage patterns dating prior to the 1950's (and some mail order patterns that were made after that) are not printed. The pattern pieces were cut to size and you'll have tissue pieces with holes for markings. These patterns are a little difficult to get used to, but you can do it! Check the instruction sheets to see if seam allowances are included and if so, what width the seam allowances are.
If you're using a printed pattern, you've got seam allowances marked on your pattern.
ALWAYS measure the pattern pieces before you do any cutting! Measure the front and back pieces at the bust, waist and hips - measure across from seamline to seamline, or seamline to center fold. If the pieces are on the half (have a center fold or seam), double the measurement for the front and the back then add front to back for the circumference of the finished garment at those three crucial areas. Now check them against your body measurements (you should be wearing the foundation garments you'll wear under the finished garment). If your garment has sleeves, also check the bicep measurement against yours.
Other crucial fit areas to check by sewing a muslin of the pattern (use inexpensive 'waste' fabric for this) are the shoulders, neckline and upper chest. Make all the pattern adjustments prior to cutting your fabric - this is especially crucial if you're using irreplaceable vintage fabric. I frequently make a muslin of the bodice and sleeve. Skirts, especially if they are full, are not usually as critical, but if the design is fitted through the hips, you may also want to make a muslin of the skirt portion.
I recommend investing in a book on fit and altering patterns for correct fit. There are several good ones available and I frequently have them available in my store at very reasonable prices.
True your pattern after making any corrections or changes for fit or style and before cutting your fashion fabric. A vintage basic sewing book can sometimes help with construction details, especially if you're tackling these sewing techniques for the first time.
After you've gained some experience sewing with vintage patterns, you might want to try tackling projects where you take inspiration from the vintage patterns and marry that with contemporary styling... I like to think of all sewing as making art with fabric... There's no limit to what we can do with a couple yards of fabric, a sewing machine and some scissors!
all written content Copyright 2005-2008 by Karen Gray - pins-n-needles
Last update March 27, 2008
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