Designers from Germany (later West Germany) have been producing wonderful costume jewelry since the 1920s. Most of what we see today as collectors is a proliferation of West German jewelry which was imported after WWII and before the reunification of Germany. The assortments and variety of these pieces is just amazing! Most remembered are the multi strand mixes of art glass and plastic beads which typify 1950s and 1960s popular beaded jewelry. The work of the German designers is fantastic, encompassing many different forms and styles. Their design ideas range from classical or sophisticated to outlandish or even whimsical.

Much of their metalwork jewelry is unusual and has held up remarkably well over the years. The reason for this is the unique metal which they used to construct the pieces. I have often wondered what specific metal was used to make this jewelry. It is incredibly lightweight. Quite a few times I have had German pieces returned by buyers who insisted they were plastic. I knew it had to be some type of aluminum, but I was never sure exactly what it was. I was digging around at our vintage store stock source, and I found some never worn 1960s West German metal bracelets tagged with the name of the metal! I was so happy to be able to finally put a name to the material. Eloxal (electrolytic oxidation of aluminum) which is an incredibly lightweight aluminum alloy.  After handling quite a bit of these German pieces I can easily spot those made with Eloxal.

Much of the late 1950s-70s West German metal jewelry is made of Eloxal. This Eloxal metal has survived wonderfully over the years because of its inherent resilient qualities. Eloxal is very lightweight and will not tarnish. It has the added benefit of being scratch “resistant”. It was heavily promoted  by the Germans as being Non Tarnish, and time has certainly proven that! It is fun for collectors to see that so much of it looks today exactly as it did the day it was made! A true Eloxal piece will show little or no darkening or tarnish, and will not show “plating wear”. Eloxal is a malleable metal, you may find some pieces bent or broken. It did not work well as a material for clasps or hooks, double check the findings for structural integrity. For this reason many of the Eloxal pieces will have normal metal fittings.  

Funky Abstract 1960s Painted Link Eloxal Bracelet

Filigree & Plastic
Scarf Clips

Faux Damascene
Asian Style Bracelet


Marcasite Look Pin

Large Filigree clip earrings

Tiny Painted Pin

This aluminum process lent itself well to “dyeing” and was produced in a wide range of metallic colors. We most often see Eloxal jewelry in rose gold, yellow gold and silver colors. The rose gold and yellow gold are pale in comparison to plated gold colors in other metals. In some cases you might sit there for a while trying to decide if the piece is a gold color or a silver color. Because it is so lightweight it is perfect for creating lightweight bulky look pieces which allow the wearer great comfort then a traditional metal. For this reason you will find most chain or link work on West Germany jewelry is made of Eloxal.  It is also seen in much of their filigree and openwork as well as in their Marcasite look pieces.  You will also find jewelry with painted (“cold enamel”) details done in Eloxal.

Eloxal jewelry is still manufactured in Germany as well as Austria, Switzerland, and Poland. I have seen some of the pieces produced today and it is astonishing how much some of the new pieces resemble the older West German designs. I find it odd that the use of Eloxal in novelty and fashion jewelry never became popular here in the USA. Comments or questions to Tracy at info@ajraefields.com

Article by - Tracy Janik - AJ Raefields

Photos and Graphics By - Amanda Briggaman