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CATTLEYA
Cattleyas are often
referred to as "The King of the Orchids". They are best known for being the
corsage orchid. Cattleyas are an excellent choice for the novice. Due to their
relative ease of culture and adaptability, Cattleyas are among the most popular
orchid genus grown. The exotic fragrance flowers are available in a wide range
of spectacular colors, sizes, shapes, and textures.
LIGHTING
Sufficient lighting is a must for
successful cultivation. Cattleyas prefer either an east or a lightly shaded
south-facing window. West windows should be used with caution. Depending upon
the location of the home, the west window may become very hot during the late
spring through early fall. The foliage on the plants may burn.
TEMPERATURE
Cattleyas adapt to a wide range of
temperatures. Provide nighttime temperatures 55 to 60ºF and daytime temperatures
70 to 90ºF. Plants can tolerate temperatures of up to 100ºF, if shading,
humidity and air circulation are increased.
WATERING
Depending upon the temperature,
Cattleyas should be watered about once or twice a week. During the summer, the
plants may need to be watered every 4-5 days. The rule of thumb for watering
should be as followed: More heat more water, less heat less water.
Cattleyas may be allowed
to dry out between waterings. Try to water the plants early in the day, so that
the foliage will be dry by nightfall.
HUMIDITY
Cattleyas prefer 40-60% humidity.
FERTILIZER
Cattleyas must be fertilized on a
regular basis.
POTTING
Cattleyas should be grown in Medium
Orchid Bark. The bark mix should be moderately coarse to allow for free
drainage. Cattleyas should be repotted once every two years. Ideally, Cattleyas
should be repotted in the spring.
PESTS
Common pests associated with
Cattleyas are scale and spider mites.
Dendrobium
Dendrobiums are an
excellent choice for the novice grower. Flowers are available in a wide range of
colors, sizes and shapes. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the
sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 months. If the plant is kept in a
bright warm spot, the plant may produce subsequent sprays of flowers. Please
follow the guidelines provided for successful cultivation.
LIGHTING
Sufficient lighting is must for successful cultivation. Dendrobiums prefer
either an east or a lightly shaded south facing window. Dark green leaves are an
indication of insufficient lighting.
TEMPERATURE
Provide nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60°F and daytime temperatures of 70 to
90°F.
WATERING
Depending upon the temperature, Dendrobiums should be watered about once or
twice a week. During the summer, the plants may need to be watered every 4-5
days. The rule of thumb for watering should be as followed: More heat more
water, less heat less water.
Dendrobiums must be
allowed to dry out completely in between watering. Try to water the plants early
in the day, so that the foliage will be dry by nightfall. To prevent bacterial
and fungal disease use Physan 20 once a month.
HUMIDITY
Dendrobiums prefer 40% to 50% humidity.
FERTILIZER
Dendrobiums must be fertilized on a regular basis.
POTTING
Dendrobiums should be grown in Medium Orchid Bark and should be repotted once
every two years. Ideally, Dendrobiums should be repotted in the spring.
Dendrobiums do best when grown in pots that are small for the size of the plant.
PESTS
Common pest associated with Dendrobiums are scale, mealy bugs and spider mites
Oncidium
Oncidium are intergeneric
hybrids comprised of a large group of orchids from many different genera. The
Odontoglossum/Oncidium alliance is very popular among orchid growers due to its
cultural flexibility and striking sprays of long lasting flowers. The plants may
be grown with relative ease in the home or under a sheltered patio.
LIGHTING
Oncidium thrives on bright light. In the home, an east or a lightly shaded
south-facing window is ideal. Outdoors, place the plants on a covered patio
protected from the mid-afternoon sun. Direct morning and late afternoon sun can
be tolerated by the plants, provided exposure occurs gradually. The plants need
to adapt slowly to the increases in lighting. The leaves should be bright green
as opposed to dark green or reddish green. Reddish green indicates too much
light; dark green indicates not enough light.
TEMPERATURE
In temperate regions, Oncidiums may be grown outside on a protected patio
covering.
Most Oncidiums and their
hybrids are intermediate in temperature preference. For the best results provide
nighttime temperatures of 50 to 60°F and daytime temperatures under 85°F.
Oncidiums will tolerate
higher daytime temperatures if the humidity is increased.
WATERING
Depending upon the temperature, Oncidiums should be watered about two or three
times a week. During the summer, the plants may need to be watered every 2-3
days. The rule of thumb for watering should be as followed: More heat more
water, less heat less water.
Oncidiums prefer to be
kept on the moist side. This does not mean that the plants like to be left in
standing water, however try to water the plants early in the day, so that the
foliage will be dry by nightfall.
HUMIDITY
Oncidiums prefer 50-65% humidity. Humidity should be increased with higher
temperatures.
FERTILIZER
Oncidiums must be fertilized on a regular basis.
POTTING
Oncidiums should be grown in either Medium Orchid Bark or Fine Orchid Bark Mix.
They should be repotted once every two years. Ideally the plants should be
repotted immediately after flowering.
PESTS
Common pests associated with Oncidiums are scale, spider mites and aphids.
Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis are among the
easiest and most rewarding orchids to grow. An American Orchid Society
demographic survey showed that Phalaenopsis have become America’s favorite
orchid. The plants adapt well to the environment of the home or office. From the
time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the
next 2 to 3 months.
LIGHTING
Sufficient lighting is a must for successful cultivation. Phalaenopsis prefer
either an east or a lightly shaded south facing window. West windows should be
used with caution. Depending upon the location of the home, the west window may
become very hot during the late spring through early fall. The foliage on your
Phalaenopsis may burn.
TEMPERATURE
Phalaenopsis thrive under normal household temperatures. For the best results,
provide nighttime temperatures between 60 to 65°F and daytime temperatures
between 75 to 85°F.
WATERING
Depending upon the temperature, Phalaenopsis potted in bark should be watered
about once or twice a week. During the summer, the plants may need to be watered
every 4-5 days. The rule of thumb for watering should be as followed: More heat
more water, less heat less water.
Phalaenopsis potted in New
Zealand sphagnum moss should be watered less often, about every 7 to 10 days.
Phalaenopsis prefer to be
kept on the moist side. This does not mean that they like to be left in standing
water, however try to water the plants early in the day so that the foliage will
be dry by nightfall.
HUMIDITY
Phalaenopsis prefer 50% humidity. Often a kitchen or bathroom will provide
sufficient humidity.
FERTILIZER
Phalaenopsis must be fertilized on a regular basis.
POTTING
Phalaenopsis may be grown in either
New Zealand Sphagnum Moss or Medium Orchid Bark Mix. Phalaenopsis should be
repotted once every two years. Ideally Phalaenopsis should be repotted
immediately after flowering.
PESTS
Common pests associated with
Phalaenopsis are scales, mealy bugs and spider mites.
FLOWERING
Phalaenopsis plants may flower again
for a second time. After the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem just under
the first flower on the spray. A new spray of flowers may emerge from the node
below.
Vanda
Vandas are fascinating
orchids that may be grown with relative ease. Vandas are monopodial. Growth
arises from the crown of the plant. Flowers are available in superbly rich
colors, including blue, red, orange and yellow. The flower spikes, which usually
carry 8 to 10 blooms, arise from the base of the leaves and last for several
weeks. The goal of good orchid culture is to promote robust, disease-free plants
with good quality flowers.
LIGHTING
Vandas require plenty of light.
Direct morning and late afternoon sun can be tolerated by Vanda, provided
exposure occurs gradually. The plants need to adapt slowly to the any increase
in lighting. Provide full morning sun when possible.
TEMPERATURE
Vandas prefer to be kept on the warm
side. Plants thrive when the nighttime temperatures are between 55 to 70°F and
daytime temperatures between 65 to 95°F.
WATERING
The rule of thumb for watering
should be as followed: More heat more water, less heat less water!
Depending upon the
temperature, Vandas grown in pots should be watered about once or twice a week.
During the summer, the plants may need to be watered every 4-5 days.
Vandas grown in baskets
require watering often. Plants need to be watered daily during the summer.
Vandas should dry out in
between watering. Try to water the plants early in the day, so that the foliage
will be dry by nightfall.
HUMIDITY
Vandas prefer 60 to 80% humidity. A
high humidity is essential during the growing season, from early spring through
late fall. During the summer, watering should be supplemented with daily misting
of the leaves.
FERTILIZER
Vandas are heavy feeders. They must
be fertilized on a regular basis.
POTTING
Vandas may be grown in
either Potted in Medium Orchid Bark Mix or in Baskets suspended by a wire.
Plants grown in baskets do not need to be repotted often as those in pots. Vandas grown in pots should be repotted once every two years. Repotting should
be done in the spring.
PESTS
Common pests associated with Vandas
are scale and spider mites.
Flasks
ITEMS NEEDED
A container with warm
water to wash off the agar,
50ml to100ml pots
small size bark mix
REMOVAL
To remove the plants
either tap the bottom of the flask till the whole lot falls towards the opening,
gently pull the whole bunch out and swirl them in the water to remove the agar;
or add a small amount of water to the flask and swirl it around until it comes
out (it may come out in pieces) again swirl them in the water. If the flask you
have doesn't lend its self to use the above systems, you will need to break the
flask. I wrap the flask with 5 or 6 sheets of newspaper, with a hammer I hit the
very base to knock the end out, and this reduces the amount of glass splinters.
Then wash them as above.
THREE DIFFERENT WAYS
PEOPLE LIKE TO DEFLASKING INTO COMPOTS.
1. Many people
half fill a 100ml pot and place the whole bunch of plants in the middle and then
place the bark ( if Sphagnum Moss works better, then use it the same way, but
beware that the Moss keeps wet longer) around the plants.
2. When you take the
whole bunch of plants from the flask DON'T wash off the agar, many say this
gives the plants time to use the agar and helps them to survive during this
trying time. I personally have tried it but I have found that as the agar
dissolves it leaves an empty section in the middle, you need to check them and
then either place more mix in the middle, or push the existing mix around the
sides to close the hole.
3. Separate the plants
gently and place in piles of the same size (I think it is better to keep the
size about the same in each compot), then place the single plants in the pot
adding a small amount of bark to hold it up, its best to place them close.
If you have or can find a
product with 'Carboxylated Hydrophilic Polymer' you should use it. It is unique
water based; hydrophilic polymer that reduces transpiration (water loss) and sun
scald in plants. Polymer is pH neutral, non-toxic and easy to apply. You
can save a lot of seedlings (especially for genera that has fine leaves) when
you are deflasking with this product. I apply a fine spray on the seedlings
when I have placed them in the pots, this stops wilting. I am not sure where to
find this product at the moment.
Gently water the compots
and then place in a well shaded warm situation (inside a hot-house is great, but
no direct sun). Inside under Flora Tubes (remember you must have a timer to turn
the lights off - 10 hrs on and 14 hrs off) would also work well.
If you have a heat pad
this will improve your chances of saving the entire seedling from the flask.
With the heat you must realize that the bark/Moss dries out quicker, so keep
your eye on the pots.
WATERING
This is where most
deflasked plants are lost. It is important not to let the compot dry right out;
one must keep it damp all the time. A good way to check the wetness is to pickup
the pot; if its very light or the drain hole is just damp then it needs
watering. Fertilizing - I wait for a week before I start, gives the plants a
time to adjust to the change. After; I use 1/4 strength fertilizer every second
watering.
There are many ways to
extract the plants from the flask and place in compots or individual pots.
Methods used will vary based on your local growing environment. Ask your local
Orchid Grower the best way for your local area.
Don't be afraid to open
the Flask 24 hours prior to deflasking. This will give your plants the
opportunity to begin the transition from the flask to the outside environment.
Basic Repotting
Most orchids need to be
repotted once every two years. The bark or moss that the orchids are grown in
gradually deteriorates. If repotting is not done, the bark or moss becomes
decomposed and packed. Under these conditions, roots are not properly aerated,
drainage becomes blocked so there is too much standing moisture, and the plant
eventually dies from asphyxiation and root rot. Ideally, orchids should be
repotted immediately after flowering.
SELECTING A NEW POT
Orchids can be grown in any kind of container that has a hole for drainage at
the bottom. Because ventilation around the bottom of the pot is vital to the
plant’s well being. Water must not be allowed to stand at the bottom of the pot.
The same pot may be re-used after the existing decomposed orchid bark has been
discarded. However, the used pot must be disinfected with Physan 20. Otherwise,
pick a pot that is just slightly larger than the previous one. The pot should be
large enough to accommodate for the plant's growth over the next years.
POTTING MIX
The potting mix is determined the size and type of orchid to be grown.
Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium and Vanda should be grown in Medium Orchid
Bark Mix. Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, Odontoglossums and Oncidium need to be potted
in Fine Orchid Bark Mix. Disinfect the orchid bark mix with diluted Physan 20,
prior to use.
REMOVAL FROM POT
Remove the plant from its
pot. This should be done in a manner that will cause the least trauma to the
roots.
Shake off and remove all
of the old bark from the root mass.
STERILISE TOOLS
To prevent the
transmission of bacterial and viral infections, sterilize the tools prior to
use. Sterilize the cutting tools with Physan 20 or flame the tool with a
blowtorch. Let the sterile tool cool down before using it on the plant.
TRIMMING
Cut off all dead roots. Dead roots are hollow and soft. Healthy roots are firm
and creamy white. The live roots situated outside the pot should be either cut
back (Cattleya and sympodial orchids) or retained (Phalaenopsis and monopodial
orchids). The live roots located inside the container are preserved.
Cut off any dry
inflorescences and dead leaves. Remove any diseased parts from the plant, if
possible. Diseased parts are often soft and dark brown or black in color. Paint
the wounded area with Alitte.
REPOTTING
If no division is needed, place the plant to be repotted in a pot that is slight
larger than the preceding one.
DIVIDING
Sterilize the cutting tools with Physan 20 or flame the tool with a blowtorch.
Let the sterile tool cool down before using it on the plant.
For blooming size plants,
a minimum of 3 to 5 bulbs per division should be kept. The rule of thumb is to
make the largest division practical, because the larger plants produce the best
and most flowers.
Divide the clump by
cutting the rhizome with clippers. Two divisions of the plant are now available.
ROOTING CARE
Dip the plant in Rootone (Rooting Hormone) or Dip~n Grow to help stimulate new
root growth.
POSITIONING THE PLANT
IN THE NEW POT
Positioning the plant in the new container is not a problem for monopodial
orchids such as Phalaenopsis. Simply place the plant in the center of the pot.
Positioning sympodial
orchids such as Cattleyas can be a challenge. Position the plant off-center in
such a manner that the new growth will develop towards the center of the pot,
and the new roots will probe down into the orchid bark. Remember, sympodial
orchids need space in front of the bulbs. Otherwise, the plants will escape from
the new pot.
Hold on to the plant
firmly, while packing the orchid bark mix into the pot. Packing the orchid bark
with the use of your hands is less traumatic to the root mass than with the use
of a wooden potting stick.
STAKING
Use bamboo stakes for support. Stakes are essential for sympodial orchids such
as Cattleyas. Place the stakes in a position that will not impede the
development of the new growth.
Orchid ties should be soft
and reinforced with metal strips. Ties are needed to support the plant. However,
ties should not be affixed too tightly; otherwise they will damage the plant as
it grows.
LABELING
Newly potted plants should have plant labels with the name of the plant and date
that it was repotted.
CARE AFTER REPOTTING
To prevent bacterial and fungal disease, water once with Phyton 27. Phyton 27 is
a systemic agent that will protect the plant for the next 90 days.
Place the newly potted
plant in a shady location. It is usually best not to water the plant for the
next 7 to 10 days. During the second week after repotting, resume a normal
watering schedule. After about a month, new roots will appears on the plant.
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