- Store your leather garment in a well ventilated area out of the garment bag
- Allow a wet or damp garment to air dry away from any heat source
- Remove small stains as soon as possible with a cleaner like saddle soap
- Polish with a good quality leather polish
- Use professional dry cleaners for more serious stains
- It is recommended that Vinyl garments be stored in a garment bag away from other clothing
- Hand wash in warm water with a small amount of liquid detergent
- Wash both the inside and outside of the garment, rinse thoroughly in cool water
- Hang to dry inside out then turn to let Vinyl side dry
- Polishing can be done with small amounts of silicone spray
- Different colors of Vinyl should be washed and stored separately as dark colors can bleed onto lighter ones.
LOVE YOUR LATEX
Shining Latex Clothing:
LATEXS PRODUCTS BEGIN LIFE IN A MATT CONDITION! MANY PEOPLE DO NOT REALISE THIS AND SO EXPECT THE CLOTHING TO ARRIVE LOOKING EXACTLY LIKE THE PICTURE!
Most people like their latex rubber clothes to look shiny though this is a matter of personal preference. Remember that getting a good shine on your latex rubber clothes requires patience, a gentle touch, and practice. The longer you have your latex rubber clothes, and the more often they are shined, the shinier they will be.
To create the effects seen in the best latex rubber photography, the natural gloss of latex rubber should be enhanced by the use of a silicone spray. Oil based products especially should be avoided. Use a soft cloth when polishing your latex rubber clothes as an abrasive cloth could scratch the surface or remove too much shine.
During the first treatment, mist one side of your latex clothing with a shining product,and then let it sit until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed into the latex rubber. Then flip your latex rubber clothes over and repeat on the other side. You do not want to wipe off the shining product - merely to spread it around. Do not rub hard. At best you will wipe away all the shine and at worst you may damage the surface of the latex rubber. You need to check your work under good lighting and do touch-ups as required. It may take two or three treatments to achieve a nice shiny, mirror-like, finish to your latex rubber clothes.
Dressing Aids: Dos and Don't's:
Talcum is a mineral, with no organic agent. Choose the ones with as finer grains as possible [softer on the skin]. Downside, it might fly all around when you apply it and then you have to clean around [trick, do it over the bathtub or in the bathtub].
Corn starch is to be avoided. It will dissolve in sweat and will be absorbed by the latex. Plus it supports the growth of bacteria and fungus.
Silicone has been said to be the best by many people, but be warned. It's impossible to remove and accumulates in the seams, getting at the glue of the garments. Plus if it's an oily brand, it will make your piece of clothing impossible to repair.
Lubes are the best way to slide in, but I find that if I put too much, my garment might move "around" me. Not much but sometimes enough to be annoying. Wearing Latex Clothing:
- Damage to latex clothing usually happen when it is being put or removing the clothing. Be patient and always handle latex rubber clothes with care.
- If it has been kept in a cool place allow the clothing to warm up and soften naturally. You may want to wear light cotton gloves to protect the rubber.
- Before attempting to put them on, latex rubber clothes should have talc liberally on the inside to make
- them easier to slip into.
- Some people prefer to use a silicone shining product such as K.Y. Lube , NX9 or Joy Jelly. Simply apply all over the body and slide right in. If you are having trouble getting your latex clothing on, then you are not using enough powder or lube.
- Any excess that remains on the outside of the latex clothing can be wiped off with a damp cloth.
- Pulling on tight latex clothing too enthusiastically can leave permanent fingertip dimples and or tear the latex rubber.
- Be aware that the thinner the latex rubber or the tighter it is stretched, the more easily it will tear.
- Do not tug at localized areas of latex rubber or it is more likely to rip.
- Slide your hand flat between the skin and the clothing and pull away with your whole hand, shifting the latex clothing as you do so.
- Repeat and shift until your clothing is in place.
- Be sure to watch for long fingernails or sharp jewelry when dressing as these can rip latex rubber very easily.
- Seek assistance with zips if you are having difficulty.
Storing Latex Clothing:
When your latex rubber clothes are not in use dust well with talc inside and a little outside to stop it sticking. Store in a dark dry place such as a wardrobe and cover with a protective material such as a black plastic bag. Take extra care with colored and transparent latex Clothing, which may stain on contact with copper-based metals, sweat, and make-up. If you hang your latex rubber clothes use a very wide PLASTIC hanger.
It's NOT recommend hanging on thin hangers or by the straps, as that can stretch it out of shape. Do not store latex clothing near sunlight as ultra-violet light causes rapid deterioration in latex rubber and it will chalk or turn white. Try silicone sealer to hide the white if this happens.
- Do not leave latex clothing exposed to direct sunlight or artificial light [i.e. fluorescent lighting].
- Do not leave latex clothes on or near heaters.
- Do not leave latex clothes in damp or moist conditions
- Stay away from flame and fire including cigarettes while wearing latex rubber clothes as the material burns very easily.
- Avoid or at least be careful of sharp objects like jewelry and long nails, cigarettes in clubs, and those that come up to you and stretch the latex rubber just to hear it snap.
- Do not allow latex rubber clothes to come into contact with copper, brass or bronze as it will stain the rubber permanently.
- Do not spray perfume or cologne on the latex rubber, as the alcohol contained in these products will not do the latex rubber any good.
- Use caution when wearing latex rubber clothes and leather clothes together as the oils used to keep leather in good shape can seriously harm the rubber.
- Never use latex clothing and oils together because the latex rubber will gradually disintegrate. If you plan on something slippery, make sure it is water based, like Cult, Eros, Wet Platinum, NX9 lube or Sharon Sloane's Super Shiner.
- Make sure to exercise caution when taking off latex, as it will grab your flesh if it is not slick enough to slide over your skin and may tear or inn rare occurrences. It may cause suffocation if it gets hung up over your mouth or nose.
Washing Latex Clothing:
After each time you wear your latex clothing it is important to clean it and put it away properly. Immediately after wearing your latex clothing, to remove sweat and cigarette smoke, alcohol, rinse in lukewarm water with a little soap or mild liquid detergent [mind that you don't use anything meant to "cut grease" because it will damage the latex rubber]. Wipe down [do not scrub] with a soft dampened cloth being sure to wash inside & out. DO NOT USE BLEACH. Rinse the latex rubber clothes well, Shake away excess water & pats dry with a lint free towel and allow drying naturally; do not use heat. Water streaks can usually be removed with a damp cloth afterwards. After washing, hang your latex rubber clothes to dry on a plastic hanger, finally dust liberally with powder.
You can wash your latex in the washing machine at GENTLE cycle [At your own risk, I personally prefer hand washing]. To ensure that your latex is not being damaged, simply add a few towels with your latex clothes, or put the latex in a wash bag [like the ones used for delicate lingerie]. Use gentle liquid dish soap [you don't need much]. Once the wash is finished, get rid of the water excess by holding the garments either on top of your washing machine or on top of the bathtub.
Hang the latex clothing over the bathtub and let the items dry off. This will take several hours to dry. This is an easy way to let the latex dry off on its own.
Some one suggested you can put the garments in the drying machine at AIR CYCLE [NO HEAT!!] with a few dry towels to absorb the water. If your latex is the kind that sticks together when dry, then apply some lube on it when it's wet, before putting it in the dryer. Note: it might be a good idea to put the clothes in some kind of cotton bag in the dryer if you don't want the lube to cover the inside of your dryer. I would not recommend this if you know your dryer tend to work "HOT". Hang the cloth to dry is a lot safer.
Tears & Repairing Latex Clothing:
When dealing with latex rubber, a small tear can very quickly become a large one. However, don't despair if your latex rubber clothes begin to tear. As long as you repair the tear when it is small the latex rubber clothes will still be usable. To patch a tear in your latex rubber clothes, you will need the following items: rubber cement, a medium grain sand paper, rubbing alcohol, and a small latex rubber patch. The simplest approach is to buy a bicycle inner tube repair kit as it contains most of the items you will need. First clean both of the surfaces that you are going to glue together with the rubbing alcohol. If there is residue on the surfaces you wish to glue (like shiner) or rubber conditioner, prolonged immersion in soapy water may be necessary to clean the latex rubber. Your next step is to lightly buff both surfaces with the sand paper. This will enhance the strength of the bonding Surface area. Now you're ready to apply the glue! The latex will curl up, but don't worry as it will gradually uncurl when it begins to dry. You might have to help it uncurl if the latex rubber has stuck to itself; for this reason, it is better to glue a small part of the patch at time, rather than the whole thing at once. When the glue is still tacky, but not wet, you want to press the two surfaces together. Run your fingers down the seam, or roll a pen or other cylindrical object down the seam to remove all the air. Let your latex rubber clothes dry for a couple hours [overnight if possible] before testing the patch. This procedure may take a couple of tries to work but be patient and keep trying. There is an ORANGE colored "Carpeting Glue" commonly called " Elephant Snot" in the trade, and it also works wonders as contact cement.