The wraps per inch and the gauge are most accurate for yarns that are structured like "typical", plied yarns. If you're working with a yarn with a special structure (for example, brushed, boucle, novelty, or eyelash yarns), then the gauge and wraps per inch may not be accurate. The information you get from this calculator is based on the following table:
| gauge | stitches per inch | wraps per inch | grist |
| superbulky | 0-3 spi | <6 wpi | <1.0 m/g |
| bulky | 3-4 spi | <8 wpi | 0.8 to 1.6 m/g |
| aran (heavy worsted) | 4-4.75 spi | 6-10 wpi | 1.6 to 2.0 m/g |
| worsted | 4.75-5.25 spi | 8-14 wpi | 1.8 to 2.2 m/g |
| DK | 5.25-5.75 spi | 12-18 wpi | 2.0 to 2.8 m/g |
| sport | 5.75-6.5 spi | 18-24 wpi | 2.6 to 3.4 m/g |
| fingering | 6.5-7.5 spi | 24-30 wpi | 3.3 to 4.7 m/g |
| baby | 7.5-9 spi | 30-36 wpi | 4.4 to 6.0 m/g |
| lace | 9-13 spi | 36-42 wpi | 5.8 to 12 m/g |
| cobweb | 13 spi | >42 wpi | >12 m/g |
When a yarn falls in a range between or overlapped by two gauges, the gauge/spi and wpi are adjusted accordingly. If you have a particularly fluffy or fuzzy yarn, then your actual gauge/spi and wpi are probably towards the lower end of the range; if you have a dense yarn, then your actual gauge/spi and wpi are probably towards the higher end of the range.
How Much Yarn Do You Need to Buy?
Just some simple math will show you how much yarn to buy. For example, you want to make a stocking stitch scarf that is 10 by 60 inches: 10 X 60 = 600. You need enough yarn to make 600 square inches. You found a chunky weight yarn you would like to use. It is normally worked to 20 rows per 4 inches. Using the chart above, look at the last two columns across from Chunky. A square inch requires 15 inches of yarn. 600 square inches of scarf, multiplied by 15 inches of yarn per square inch equals 9000 inches of yarn. Divide 9000 by 36 to get the amount of yards you will need, which would be 250 yards. If the yarn is labeled in metric, divide by 39 instead to arrive at 231 meters.
To convert yards to meters: Take the number of yards and multiply by .9.
To convert meters to yards: Take the number of meters and multiply by 1.1.
You may use this chart for garter stitch, however the Rows per 4 Inches will not quite match up with the Yarn Weight / Thickness since there are usually more rows per inch in garter than in stocking stitch. Please keep that in mind.
Another Helpful Conversion chart
|
Australia/UK |
US |
|
2 ply |
lace weight |
|
3 ply, 4 ply |
fingering |
|
8 ply, double knit, dk |
sport weight, double knit |
|
10 ply, Aran |
worsted weight |
|
12 ply, Chunky |
bulky |
Standards & Guidelines for Crochet and Knitting
Compiled by
Craft Yarn Council of America
The publishers, fiber, needle and hook manufacturers and yarn members of the Craft Yarn Council of America have worked together to set up a series of guidelines to bring uniformity to yarn, needle and hook labeling and to patterns, whether they appear in books, magazines, leaflets or on yarn labels. Our goal is to make it easier for consumers to select the right materials for a project and complete it successfully.
“Standards” are guidelines for industry manufacturers, publishers and designers to assist them in preparing consumer-friendly products. With the cooperation of manufacturers, publishers and designers, these changes will be implemented over a period of time as products and packaging are redesigned and new books and leaflets are published.
********************************
|
Yarn Weight
Symbol &
Category
Names |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Type of
Yarns in
Category |
Sock,
Fingering,
Baby |
Sport,
Baby |
DK,
Light
Worsted
|
Worsted,
Afghan,
Aran |
Chunky,
Craft,
Rug
|
Bulky,
Roving
|
|
Knit Gauge
Range in
Stockinette
Stitch |
27–32 sts/4"
6.75-8 sts/1" |
23–26 sts/4"
5.75-6.5 sts/1" |
21–24 sts/4"
5.25-6 sts/1" |
16–20 sts/4"
4-5 sts/1"
|
12–15 sts/4"
3-3.75 sts/1"
|
6–11 sts/4"
1.5-2.75 sts/1" |
Recommended
Metric Needle |
2.25-3.25
mm |
3.25-3.75
mm |
3.75-4.5
mm |
4.5-5.5
mm |
5.5-8
mm |
8 mm
and
larger |
Recommended
U.S. Needle |
1 to 3 |
3 to 5 |
5 to 7 |
7 to 9 |
9 to 11 |
11
and
larger |
Crochet Gauge
Ranges in
Single Crochet
to 4 inch |
21–32
sts
|
16–20
sts |
12–17
sts |
11–14
sts |
8–11
sts |
5–9
sts |
Recommended
Metric Hook |
2.25-3.5
mm |
3.5-4.5
mm |
4.5-5.5
mm |
5.5-6.5
mm |
6.5-9
mm |
9
mm and
larger |
Recommended
US Hook Size |
B–1
to
E–4 |
E–4
to
7 |
7
to
I–9 |
I–9
to
K–10 1?2 |
K–10 1?2 to
M–13 |
M–13
and
larger |
|
GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. |
The Council’s hook and needle manufacturers have agreed to make metric (millimeter/mm) sizing more prominent on packaging. The U.S. sizes, both numbers and/or letters, will also appear on packaging.
More prominent labeling of metric sizing, which is an actual measurement, should help eliminate consumer questions about the differences among the letter and number sizing of some needles and hooks. As noted in the introduction, with the cooperation of manufacturers, publishers and designers these changes will be implemented as packaging is reprinted and new patterns are published.
Standard Body Measurements/Sizing
Most crochet and knitting pattern instructions will provide general sizing information, such as the chest or bust measurements of a completed garment. Many patterns also include detailed schematics or line drawings. These drawings show specific garment measurements (bust/chest, neckline, back, waist, sleeve length, etc.) in all the different pattern sizes. To insure proper fit, always review all of the sizing information provided in a pattern before you begin.
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters). The chart entitled "fit" recommends the amount of ease to add to body measurements if you prefer a close-fitting garment, an oversized garment, or something in-between.
|
Fit Chart |
| Very-close fitting: |
Actual chest/bust measurement or less |
| Close-fitting: |
1–2"/2.5–5cm |
| Standard-fitting: |
2–4"/5–10cm |
| Loose-fitting: |
4–6"/10–15cm
Oversized: 6"/15cm or more |
The Length Chart provides average lengths for children’s, women’s and men’s garments.
|
Length Chart |
| |
Waist Length |
Hip Length |
Tunic Length |
| Child |
Actual body measurement |
2"/5cm down from waist |
6"/15cm down from waist |
| Woman |
Actual body measurement |
6"/15cm down from waist |
11"/28cm down from waist |
| Men |
Men’s length usually varies only 1–2"/ 2.5–5cm from the actual “back hip length” measurement |
Both the "fit" and "length" charts are simply guidelines. For individual body differences, changes can be made in body and sleeve lengths when appropriate. However, consideration must be given to the project pattern. Certain sizing changes may alter the appearance of a garment.
How to measure
1. Chest/Bust
Measure around the fullest part of the chest/bust.
Do not draw the tape too tightly.
2. Center Back Neck–to-Cuff
With arm slightly bent, measure from back base of neck across shoulder around bend of elbow to wrist.
3. Back Waist Length
Measure from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline.
4. Cross Back
Measure from shoulder to shoulder.
5. Sleeve Length
With arm slightly bent, measure from armpit to cuff.
6. Head Circumference
For an accurate head measure, place a tape measure across the forehead and measure around the full circumference of the head.
Keep the tape snug for accurate results.
Standard Body Measurements / Sizing
|
Head Circumference Chart |
For an accurate head measure, place a tape measure across the forehead and measure around the full circumference of the head. Keep the tape snug for accurate results.
|
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